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BulkActives are DIY skin care suppliers of skin actives, cosmetic ingredients, cosmeceuticals, active ingredients, and standardized botanical extracts for diy skin care products and homemade cosmetics.

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Natural L(+)-lactic acid (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)

 

Is an active ingredient for DIY skin care and homemade cosmetics from BulkActives.

Product details

 

Assay: 87.5-88.5% w/w

Description: Natural L(+)-lactic acid, which is produced by fermentation from carbohydrates.

Form: liquid
Molecular formula: CH3CHOHCOOH
Molecular weight: 90
Chemical name: 2-hydroxypropionic acid
CAS number: 79-33-4 (general 50-21-5) USA GRAS

 

Solubility: comletely soluble in water and alcohol.

Usage: Lactic acid and lactates can best be added in the aqueous phase.


 

Suggested percentages: 0.5 to 10%

The presence of lactic acid depends on the pH.  The benefits and usage levels of lactates depend on the desired functionality:

pH-regulation: < 0.5%              
Moisturizing: 0.5 - 5 %                    
AHA effect: pH 4.0 - 5.0
Skin lightening: pH 3.5 - 7.0

Restrictions:

 

  • Do not use more than 10%
  • CTFA recommends the addition of an SPF for AHA formulations.
  • Alternatively you MUST wear a HIGH UVA and UVB sun protection product

 

Storage: Cool, dry place. Do not freeze. Keep away from light and moisture!


Country of manfacture: Thailand

Manufacturer: Purac (CSM - The Netherlands)

Manufacturer's data: available

About Alpha Hydroxy Acid: Treating Wrinkles with Alpha Hydroxy Acids

 

 

About L(+)-lactic acid

 

Difference between L(+), D(-) and DL (racemic) lactic acid

Lactic acid is the simplest hydroxy acid with a chiral carbon atom. Due to this chirality lactic acid exists in a racemic form and in two optically active forms: L(+) and D(-). Only the L(+) form is the natural form and is present in the human body (e.g. skin, muscles and brain). Tests show that only the L(+) form is recognized by the skin, and that it also exhibits the least irritation. The D(-) form lacks some of the benefits of the L(+) form and the racemic mixture only partly possesses the benefits of the L(+) form.  L(+)-lactic acid: the natural isomer of lactic acid.

Our L(+)-lactic acid is a 100% natural products, with carbohydrates (such as beet sugar) as their raw material. The production process (fermentation with the aid of bacteria) is also natural. In addition to L(+)-natural lactic acid, there is also so-called synthetic lactic acid available on the market. This product is less suitable for use in cosmetic formulations because it triggers irritation and is only 50% active. If lactic acid or lactates are to be used in cosmetic products, always insist on natural L(+)-lactic acid!

Lactic acid and milk

Because lactic acid (officially known as 2-hydroxy propionic acid) was first discovered in 1780 by the Swedish chemist Scheele in a sample of spoiled milk, it was named lactic acid. There is no other relation to milk and PURAC L(+)-lactic acid and lactates (sodium and potassium lactate) are clear, water white and low-viscous liquids with a mild odor. All other mineral salts are powders.

Stability

L(+)-lactic acid is very stable, resulting in a shelf life of 5 years. L(+)-lactic acid is a self-preserving acid so the product does not come under attack by micro-organisms. In most commonly used temperature areas (0°C/32°F to 200°C/392°F), L(+)-lactic acid is completely stable.

Regulating the pH

L(+)-lactic acid can be used to regulate the pH in all kinds of toiletry and skin care products. In liquid products, the addition of 0.1-0.5% wt of L(+)-lactic acid is, in most cases, sufficient to produce a pH of 5-6 in the end product.

Thickeners

Stabilizing products containing hydroxy acids and their salts can be a problem, since typical usage levels can be relatively high. This can result in a formulation that is very acidic and/or has high levels of salt (ions). Thickening systems such as Carbopol thickeners are therefore not compatible. Most thickeners however are compatible. These include xanthan gum.

Mild formulations for (sensitive skin and no risk of irritation) with L(+)-lactic acid

L(+)-lactic acid is very effective in producing mild formulations. Commercial products for sensitive skin and/or baby products often contain L(+)-lactic acid. In order to obtain such a mild formulation it is important to set the pH of the formulation at 5.5 - 7.0. If formulated at these pH levels, mild and gentle cosmetic products can be obtained that are suitable for all skin types.

Skin lightening properties of L(+)-lactic acid

The  lightening properties of L(+)-lactic acid  is are based on the suppression of the formation of tyrosinase. As a result, the lightening effect can be achieved at (skin) neutral pH conditions (pH 5.5-7.0).

Only a few active ingredients are currently known to have tyrosinase-formation suppression abilities. The best known active is L(+)-lactic acid and its salts.

Good skin-lightening properties have been reported at higher concentrations (>5% equivalent lactic acid), making use of the independent melanogenic controlling function of the viable pigment cell.

If formulated at lower pH levels, it is presumed that the exfoliative action of L(+)-lactic acid in some way could contribute to the lightening effects of the compositions tested.

Higher concentrations of lactates

It is possible to formulate with high concentrations of  L(+)-lactic acid. Concentrations up to 15% have been reported in commercial products. The most important parameter to watch is the pH of the final formulation. As long as the pH of the formulation is higher than 5.0, mild and gentle products can be formulated with higher concentrations of L(+)-lactic acid.

Note that the final CIR report from June 1997 states that lactic acid is safe in concentrations =10% at a final formulation pH of = 3.5.

When using Lactic Acid you must wear high level UVA and UVB protection!

 

If you don't like the chemicals in commercial sun protection products, please do not use Lactic Acid .

BulkActives' lactic acid is the natural form, L (+) Lactic Acid . This ingredient is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid, and is used as a milder alternative to glycolic acid. Alpha hydroxy acids have been shown to promote smoother, younger looking skin by increasing the rate of cell renewal, improving skin texture and tone.  Produced by the fermentation of carbohydrates, our L (+) Lactic Acid does not contain any milk or animal products of any types.

When using Lactic Acid you must wear high level UVA and UVB protection!

 

If you don't like the chemicals in commercial sun protection products, please do not use Lactic Acid .