pore refinement

Pore refinement and reducing pore size in skin care

Skin pores are tubular-like channels that primarily serve the sudoriparous (sweat) glands, starting from the hypodermic level and crossing the skin all the way to the surface, at the epidermis level. While pore density may vary in different skin regions they are however present all over the body, at skin level. Pores also secondarily serve sebaceous glands that use them as transportation channels for the produced oils and sebum that needs to be delivered to the skin surface. Some of the pores also link hair follicles and then open to the epidermal surface, creating an intricate system of transportation.

Pores play a vital role in thermoregulation maintaining the temperature balance and body hydration in concordance with outside temperature and humidity by delivering the sweat to the skin level. They also have an important part in the excretory function, expelling along with the water in the sweat, toxins, chemical and mineral waste. Last but not least important, pores are involved in the protection function, as the sweat and sebum delivered to the skin surface permanently work in maintaining an acid skin PH that repels and even inactivates bacteria and germs.

Pore size varies from 30-40 micrometers for the ones that serve the sweat glands exclusively to 80-100 micrometers for the ones that also serve sebaceous glands and hair follicles. Hence, some pores are more visible than others, especially the ones with high sebum activity (T zone especially – forehead, nose, chin) and the ones with hair follicles [1][2][3].

Because at one side pores transport various substances to the skin surface, and on the other side they are constantly aggressed by environmental factors such as, dust, dirt, chemical aggressions, smoke and others, they need to be periodically cleaned and taken care of.  As a comparison, pores are like high traffic highways that need to be permanently maintained without affecting their functionality and avoiding down time.

Cleaning and maintaining functional pores is defined as pore refinement. Pore problems are diverse varying from enlarged pores, blackheads due to dust and dirt accumulation, clogged and swollen pores, and cysts. Generally, pore improper functioning is one of the most important precursors for acne. The body areas that are more exposed to pores problems are the ones that are more exposed to sunlight, due to our biped position – face, shoulders, back, and unfortunately the most visible ones. 

There are a lot of treatments for the various skin pores related problems, from over the counter oral drugs and topical ointments to expensive – laser assisted cosmetic procedures, but recent dermatology and cosmetic researches proved what traditional – plant based – medicine knew all along: preventing is better than curing. There are a lot of DIY mixtures and combinations that allow the development of the perfectly tailored and most efficient topical solution for skin care, including pore refinement [4] [5][6].

Gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) is a neurotransmitter that naturally occurs in the animal kind, including humans. As a chemical neurotransmitter has contraction inhibitor and mio-relaxing effects. Due to its action on neuronal pathways GABA was tested and demonstrated relevant capabilities in skin topical treatments. Currently there are numerous patents that revolve around GABA utilizations: wrinkle relaxer, peripheral circulation enhancer, anti-aging agent, moisturizer, skin pores shrinker, parakeratosis inhibitor and others. Enlarged pores are problematic especially in the greasy and oily skin types. Due to the sebum excess pores tend to dilate to accommodate the larger quantities that need to be transported. Larger pores are not only more visible but also more exposed to bacterial action, clogging, inflammation and acne. Existing patents show that topically applied GABA containing mixtures have a visible effect on reducing pore size [7]
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Niacinamide (nicotinamide, Vitamin B3)  is one of the most widely used active ingredients in skin care and a vital component for overall skin health. Due to its water solubility, effective dermis penetration and excellent skin compatibility it is used in numerous purposes due to its antioxidant properties, extracellular matrix components promoter, MMP inhibitor action, skin excretory function regulator. Niacinamide is effective in regulating sebum production, moisturizing and maintaining the skin barrier – vital factors for healthy, normal sized pores. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that help in treating clogged and swollen pores [8]. When topically used it stabilizes skin barrier function and reduces moisture loss with visible results in reducing symptoms of dry skin – a sign of sebum imbalance. It also reduces red facial blotches, and pore size by reducing sebum (oil) excretion by penetrating through dermis and regulating sebaceous glands activity [9].

Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid) - a botanical active extracted from the seeds white willow bark - and the white willow bark extract (salicin) are both efficient actives in regulating sebum production and maintaining clean, healthy pores. Due to their high ability to penetrate deep into the skin the active ingredients are excellent in cleaning pores and eliminating extra sebum, diminishing blemish and treat follicle cysts [5]. Salicylic Acid is commonly used in amounts up to 2% for daily use. Being lipid soluble, meaning it mixes well with oily substances, it can penetrate deep into pores and reduce and even eliminate trapped sebum, thus being a great adjuvant in sebum excess induced acne and a great blackheads remedy [10]. White willow bark extract can reduce acne, exfoliate the skin, and reduce sebum [oil] build-up that can generate clogged pores, local inflammation, acne and cysts [11]. Besides salicin, white willow bark extracts also has a high concentration of polyphenols that boost the active efficiency in treating blackheads and acne – both pore related problems [12].

In order to maintain a healthy, young looking skin a daily care routine is necessary. Keeping the skin pores clean is a vital step in obtaining a impeccable skin especially if the skin is exposed to aggressive environment, pollution, smoke and smoking, make-up or is just prone to sebum imbalance (no matter if dry or oily skin). DIY cosmetic allows you to choose the right actives for your skin and increment the quantities to perfection obtaining a perfect custom treatment for your skin, which you cannot get from the available commercial options. For effective pore refinement, besides using the proper actives, quantities and recipe choosing the proper vehicle is of great importance. The carrier base needs to be moisturizing and efficient in incrementing and homogenising the active ingredients in order to uniformly and profoundly deliver them in the skin.

References

[1] A.B.  Ackerman, A. Böer, B. Bennin, Bruce; G.J. Gottlieb , "Embryologic, Histologic, and Anatomic Aspects", 2005
[2] Bolognia, Jorizzo, Schaffer (2012), “Dermatology. Structure and Function of Eccrine, Apocrine and Sebaceous Glands”,  pp: 539–544, 2012
[3] W.C. Randall, “Quantization and regional distribution of sweat glands in man”, Journal of Clinical Investigation, 25, pp: 761–767, 1946
[4] O. Braun-Falco, G. Plewig, H.H. Wolff, W.H.C. Burgdorf,  "Diseases of the Apocrine Sweat Glands". Dermatology. Springer Berlin Heidelberg. pp. 1083–1086, 2000
[5] L. Bauman, “Cosmetic Dermatology – Principles and Pactice”, second edition, ISBN: 978-0-07-164128-9
[6] C.Burgess, Cosmetic Dermatology, ISBN 3-540-23064-5 Springer Berlin Heidelberg New York, 2005
[7]   M. Kaminuma, M. Suetsugu, T. Iida, and S. Inomata, “Parakeratosis inhibitor, pore -shrinking agent and external compositon for skin,” US20120232111 A1, 13-Sep-2012.
[8] D.L. Bissett, “Common cosmeceuticals,” Clinics in Dermatology, vol. 27, pp. 435–445, 2009.
[9] D.L. Bissett, “Topical Niacinamide and Barrier Enhancement,” Proctor and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio. pp. 8-12.
[10]  Z.D. Draelos, “Examining Over-the-Counter Acne Treatments,” Cosmetic Dermatology, vol.22, no. 7, pp. 344-348, July 2009.
[11]  L.L. Levy and J.L. Emer, “Emotional benefit of cosmetic camouflage in the treatment of facial skin conditions: personal experience and review,” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol., vol. 5, pp. 173-182, 2012.
[12]   A. Svobodová, J. Psotová, and D. Walterová, “Natural Phenolics in the Prevention of UV- induced Skin Damage: A Review,” Biomed. Papers, vol. 147, issue 2, pp. 137–145, 2003.