Supplier of: skin actives, cosmetic ingredients, cosmeceuticals, active ingredients, and skin care ingredients, for DIY skin care and cosmetics, and homemade skin care products.
Reviews
Carla, Many medications can be and are applied topically by prescription. With that in mind, realize that this particular ingredient is wonderful but understand that this is indeed one of those that may create sensitivity with those already using topical hormones or just use sparingly and see how you respond. Sorry for the very late response..... ...»
Angela
Very good product! Only been using it for a short time, its already made a difference. .. ...»
Bronwynne
muy satisfecho profesionales, y envio sin problemas ,ya que soy de españa producto bien envasado , un placer ser cliente porque dan comnfianza y calidad.gracias un saludo.. ...»
daniel
Wanting to try this, but.... Angela, what was that about effecting hormones? Could someone explain please..... ...»
Carla
I wished i could order this in a smaller amount of 50 gr. Can i get informed when it is available ? -------------------- A. It will not be sold in smaller amounts. The review rating is meant to be for the product, not the size in which it is sold :-(.. ...»
Diana
Excellent quality, very fine texture and disperses easily when used correctly. Arrived in just seven days to London, England and with a reasonable postage fee. Very pleased... ...»
D N Bay
The best, most potent and most stable form of Vitamin C. Makes quite a difference to the appearance of mature, photo-damaged skin - don't expect results over night but with consistent use your skin will look more even and radiant!.. ...»
Judy
I purposely waited a few months before writing my review. I am happy to report this product is great! I combined the DMAE product with the base creams resulting in tighter skin and lessened wrinkles, including areas around underarms... ...»
cjmluv
Very good product. It performed exactly how I expected. .. ...»
Ryan
This ingredient has done more for my skin than anything else I've ever used. I put it into a spray facial toner and use it morning and night. I noticed the effects immediately, they were that dramatic. I will use this forever, no question... ...»
Marie
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Recent Articles

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Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate)

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate) is a molecule derived from vitamin C and isopalmitic acid. Pure vitamin C has several drawbacks for cosmeceutical use, most important of which is the low stability. Chemically modified vitamin molecules are more stable, and pure vitamin is released from the derivatives inside the body. Therefore, the effects of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate are similar to those of vitamin C, most importantly it is able to act as an antioxidant. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate reduces the production of oxidizing agents, which contribute to cell damage after exposure to UV or chemical hazards. This effect is even stronger in the modified molecule than in pure vitamin C. Additionally, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate protects against DNA damage and skin darkening caused by UV exposure. Finally, skin visual appearance is also improved by Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, as it promotes collagen synthesis and acts as a hydrating agent in reducing skin roughness.

Key benefits of Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in skin care:

  • Sun damage protection [1] [2] [7]
  • Sun damage repair [2]
  • Antioxidant [1] [6]
  • Moisturizing and hydration [5]
  • Stimulate collagen production [2]
  • Lightening & brightening [1]
  • treat hyperpigmentation [1]
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Product Code: BulkActives
Reward Points: 14
Assay: 99%
CAS#: 183476-82-6
Net weight: 14g / 0.49oz & 50g / 1.76oz
Availability:
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50g / 1.76oz - Options Out of Stock
1kg / 35.27oz - Options In Stock
Price: $28.60
Reward Points: 1370


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About Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate / Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in DIY Skin Care

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (also tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbate, or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate) is a molecule derived from vitamin C. It is produced by combining one molecule of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) with four molecules of tetraisopalmitic acid, a fatty acid found in butter and other sources. Although it was developed only recently, its safety for human use has been thoroughly tested [1], [2]. While pure vitamin C has many clinical and cosmetical benefits, it degrades easily and its delivery through skin is ineffective. Furthermore, sudden high doses of ascorbic acid may be toxic to cells, so several modified versions of this vitamin have been developed [3], [4]. Inside the body cells, any modifications are removed and pure vitamin C is released. In the case of Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, more than 80 % of the vitamin C content is released successfully [1]. An additional benefit of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is that it is soluble in lipids, such as oils, and thus its uptake through the skin is easier. The pH of this derivative (around 4.0-6.0) is also more compatible with skin than that of pure ascorbic acid [5].

In this way, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate retains all the beneficial effects of vitamin C. For example, while the Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate molecule itself is not able to act as an antioxidant, it is proven to protect skin cells from oxidizing stress. It reduces the levels of free radicals, produced by certain chemicals or UV radiation, proving that vitamin C is effectively released [1], [6]. It is also able to protect the skin cell DNA from mutations caused by UV exposure and increase the cell viability [2].

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate was also shown to improve the physical appearance of the skin. A formulation with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate acts as a moisturizer, improving the smoothness of the skin. It was also shown to increase the thickness of epithelial layer in mice [5]. Vitamin C is well known for the ability to activate collagen synthesis, and Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate also retains this effect. In fact, the derivative had an even stronger effect, compared with the same concentrations of vitamin C [2]. Furthermore, it was shown to inhibit the collagen-degrading enzymes, thus it additionally helps maintain higher skin collagen content and improved visual appearance [2].

Furthermore, a cream containing 3 % Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate was shown to reduce skin darkening. This is explained by the fact that skin cells, treated with Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, do not activate melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) in response to UV radiation [1]. Preparation with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and flavonoids (a group of plant-produced molecules) had an even stronger effect, reducing skin damage and inflammatory response after UV exposure [7]. Using a combination of several antioxidants also increase the stability and thus the shelf-life of final product. Therefore, researchers suggest combining Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate with plant extracts and other vitamins [7], [8]

About Vitamin C derivatives in Skin Care

 "Most vitamin C derivatives on the market, including ascorbyl palmitate and magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate, consist of the ascorbic acid fragment (ascorbyl) and a fragment of another acid (e.g. palmitate or phosphate). Recent research indicates that new vitamin C derivatives, such as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, consisting of multiple chemical fragments bound to a single ascorbic acid fragment may work even better. These new derivatives are more stable compared to both vitamin C and older derivatives. Furthermore, some of these newcomers (particularly the so-called tetrasubstituted lipophilic ascorbates) also appear to be more powerful boosters of collagen synthesis."  
Dr. G. Todorov, Vitamin C Derivatives, smartskincare.com

Anhydrous vitamin C Combo 

"There is some evidence that combining water soluble and oil-soluble forms of vitamin C may provide synergistic skin benefits through broader antioxidant protection and better penetration."
Dr. G. Todorov, Anhydrous Vitamin C Combo, smartskincare.com

L-ascorbic acid with Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate in a waterless silicone base
 "Ten patients having facial photodamage were recruited for a double-blind pilot study of a newly formulated vitamin C ,complex having 10% ascorbic acid, a water soluble acid, and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a lipid soluble analog. Both of these are combined in an anhydrous polysilicone gel base, which acts as a 'dermal patch,' releasing the water soluble acid slowly and the lipid soluble analog rapidly. The active vitamin C complex was applied to one side of the face and the inactive placebo base was applied to the opposite side of the face once a day."
Source: Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatology Associates of San Diego County, Inc. 92024, USA. Read more
 
CAS# :183476-82-6
INCI Name: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Chemical. Name: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Appearance: Colorless to pale yellow liquid
Suggested percentage: .5% to 7%
Solubility:
  • Excellent solubility in carrier oils, mineral oils, ethanol, silicone. 
  • Insoluble in water, propylene glycol, glycerin.
Stability: Best at pH 5.5
Inorganic Organic balance (IOB) : 0.274
HLB: 2.74 (IOB 0.274 x 10 = HLB 2.74)

Storage: Cool place. Do not freeze.
Country of origin: Japan
 
[1]          Y. Ochiai, S. Kaburagi, K. Obayashi, N. Ujiie, S. Hashimoto, Y. Okano, H. Masaki, M. Ichihashi, and H. Sakurai, “A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties,” J. Dermatol. Sci., vol. 44, no. 1, pp. 37–44, Oct. 2006.
[2]          L. Xiao, K. Kaneyasu, Y. Saitoh, Y. Terashima, Y. Kowata, and N. Miwa, “Cytoprotective effects of the lipoidic-liquiform pro-vitamin C tetra-isopalmitoyl-ascorbate (VC-IP) against ultraviolet-A ray-induced injuries in human skin cells together with collagen retention, MMP inhibition and p53 gene repression,” J. Cell. Biochem., vol. 106, no. 4, pp. 589–598, Mar. 2009.
[3]          I. Yamamoto, N. Muto, K. Murakami, and J. Akiyama, “Collagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts is stimulated by a stable form of ascorbate, 2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid,” J. Nutr., vol. 122, no. 4, pp. 871–877, Apr. 1992.
[4]          K. Murakami, N. Muto, K. Fukazawa, and I. Yamamoto, “Comparison of ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid 2-O-alpha-glucoside on the cytotoxicity and bioavailability to low density cultures of fibroblasts,” Biochem. Pharmacol., vol. 44, no. 11, pp. 2191–2197, Dec. 1992.
[5]          P. M. B. G. Maia Campos, M. D. Gianeti, F. B. Camargo, and L. R. Gaspar, “Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: stability studies and in vivo efficacy,” Eur. J. Pharm. Biopharm. Off. J. Arbeitsgemeinschaft Für Pharm. Verfahrenstechnik EV, vol. 82, no. 3, pp. 580–586, Nov. 2012.
[6]          P. Jurkovic, M. Sentjurc, M. Gasperlin, J. Kristl, and S. Pecar, “Skin protection against ultraviolet induced free radicals with ascorbyl palmitate in microemulsions,” Eur. J. Pharm. Biopharm. Off. J. Arbeitsgemeinschaft Für Pharm. Verfahrenstechnik EV, vol. 56, no. 1, pp. 59–66, Jul. 2003.
[7]          P. M. B. G. Maia Campos, M. D. Gianeti, A. Kanashiro, Y. M. Lucisano-Valim, and L. R. Gaspar, “In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effects of an association of bioflavonoids with liposoluble vitamins,” Photochem. Photobiol., vol. 82, no. 3, pp. 683–688, Jun. 2006.
[8]          M. D. Gianeti, L. R. Gaspar, F. B. de Camargo, and P. M. B. G. M. Campos, “Benefits of combinations of vitamin A, C and E derivatives in the stability of cosmetic formulations,” Mol. Basel Switz., vol. 17, no. 2, pp. 2219–2230, 2012.
[9]          Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg. 2002 Mar;28(3):231-6. PubMed PMID: 11896774..
 

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