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Rose plants [from the genus Rosa] contain 150 species in Europe, Asia, and North America [8]. Rosehips are the pseudo fruit of rose plants. They are used in traditional cultures as a tea or vitamin supplement [8]. Rosehips are known for having high amounts of vitamin C [1]. Rosehip extract has been shown to have antioxidant properties, attributed most often to vitamin C content [8, 11]. However, the therapeutic properties of oil extracted from rosehips have also been explored.
Rosehips are 6.5-12.9% oil [7]. The highest amounts of oil [>10%] are found in R. canina, R. dumalis, and R. subcanina variations [7]. The oil from rosehips contains no vitamin C, as vitamin C is soluble in water and not oil.
The oil is about 70% unsaturated fatty acids [3, 7]. Fatty acids are known to smooth the skin, repair damaged tissue, and overall revitalize the skin [4]. They are highly moisturizing and protect the outer barrier of the skin from damage [4]. Rose hip oil contains high amounts of linoleic [omega-6], oleic [omega-9], and alpha-linolenic [omega-3] fatty acids [11]. It also contains gamma-linolenic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid, which is known to have anti-inflammatory effects [4]. Rosehip oil has a significant amount of trans-retinoic acid, a precursor of vitamin A [3][14] Trans-retinoic acid is known to aid in restoring and rebuilding tissue [3]. This component also adds to the stability of the oil [2].
Linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids from rose hips were shown to have anti-inflammatory properties. Fatty acids inhibit the arachidonic acid pathway. Arachidonic acid is made into prostaglandins, inflammation mediators [11]. Both linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids were shown, in vitro [outside the body], to inhibit the enzyme COX-2 that is responsible for converting arachidonic acid into prostaglandins [6, 11]. Also, rosehip extract has been shown to inhibit certain inflammatory mediators involved in inflammation in vitro [10]. These inflammatory mediators decrease the production of collagen, thus rose hip oil may help increase collagen production and protect existing collagen from damage. In a clinical study, rosehip seed oil shows promise for inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema, ulcers, and cheilitis [lip inflammation] [1].
Rosehip oil is known to improve the appearance of scars. In clinical studies, rosehip oil reduces the appearance of surgical scars [4, 5]. In this study, skin elasticity and smoothness improved. A surgeon with experience treating scars reported rosehip oil reduced tension in radiation scars [5]. Another surgeon noted rosehip oil’s usefulness for treating burn scars [5]. Rosehip oil was shown to reduce redness and hyper-pigmentation in scars and loosen fibrous cords associated with scaring [9]. Researchers attribute this scar-reducing effect to the presence of trans-retinoic acid [5].
In addition to helping reduce scar appearance, rosehip oil has other therapeutic effects. A cream containing rose hip oil was shown to reduce the signs of premature skin aging [5]. Rosehip oil reduces the appearance of photoaging, chronic damage to the skin due to excessive sun exposure [4, 5]. It decreased surface wrinkles in patients with photoaging and increased skin elasticity [5]. Rosehip oil also has anti-microbial effects. In an in vitro study, rosehip seed oil killed yeast [1].
Fatty acids | Range | |
Myristic | C14:0 | 0.0 -0.3 % |
Palmitic | C16:0 | 3.4 - 4.4 % |
Palmitoleic | C16:1 | 0.1 - 0.18 % |
Stearic | C18:0 | 1.5 -2.5 % |
Oleic | C18:1 | 14.0 - 16.0 % |
Linoleic | C18:2 | 43.0 - 46.0 % |
Linolenic | C18:3 | 31.0 -34.0 % |
Arachidic | C20:0 | 0.1 - 0.9 % |
Gadoleic | C20:1 | 0.0 - 0.5 % |
Eicosenoic | C20:2 | 0.0 - 0.5 % |
Behenic | C22:0 | 0.1 -0.4 % |
Lycopene | 400-800 ppm |
Tocopherols | 700-1100 ppm |
The oil should have a distinct odor but not a sweet rose fragrance. If you smell roses, the manufacturer added fragrance, and the oil probably is not genuine rose hip oil.
Place some of the oil on a white surface and look at the color. Rose hip oil is naturally a reddish hue, although a cold-pressed oil can be strained or refined into a clear oil. If the oil has a reddish color, it is more likely to be cold-pressed.
Fatty acids | Range | |
Myristic | C14:0 | 0.0 -0.3 % |
Palmitic | C16:0 | 3.4 - 4.4 % |
Palmitoleic | C16:1 | 0.1 - 0.18 % |
Stearic | C18:0 | 1.5 -2.5 % |
Oleic | C18:1 | 14.0 - 16.0 % |
Linoleic | C18:2 | 43.0 - 46.0 % |
Linolenic | C18:3 | 31.0 -34.0 % |
Arachidic | C20:0 | 0.1 - 0.9 % |
Gadoleic | C20:1 | 0.0 - 0.5 % |
Eicosenoic | C20:2 | 0.0 - 0.5 % |
Behenic | C22:0 | 0.1 -0.4 % |
Lycopene | 400-800 ppm |
Tocopherols | 700-1100 ppm |
The oil should have a distinct odor but not a sweet rose fragrance. If you smell roses, the manufacturer added fragrance, and the oil probably is not genuine rose hip oil.
Place some of the oil on a white surface and look at the color. Rose hip oil is naturally a reddish hue, although a cold-pressed oil can be strained or refined into a clear oil. If the oil has a reddish color, it is more likely to be cold-pressed.