About Sclerotium Gum in DIY Skin Care
Sclerotium Gum in Skin Care
CAS No.:39464-87-4
INCI: Sclerotium Gum
Source: Fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii (filamentous Mushroom)
Appearance: White granules
Odor: Characteristic
Solubility: water (0.25 – 2.0% at 20C)
Suggested percentage: 0.25 – 2.0%
- 0.8 to 1.5% for standard gels
- 0.2 to 0.8% to stabilize emulsions
- 1.5 to 2.0% to suspend in cleansing systems
- 0.3 to 0.6% for spray-able solutions / suspensions
- 0.5 to 1.5% to stabilize / thicken cleansing systems
pH: 1% Solution = 6.0 to 9.0
Viscosity: 0.5% Solution = 500 to 800 cp
Charge: Non-Ionic
Storage: Tightly Sealed, Protected from Moisture / Heat
Shelf: 60 Months when Properly Stored / Handled!
Country of origin: China
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Link to Instructional video (a normal kitchen stick blender may be used)
- Sprinkle the Sclerotium Gum granules of directly into the water at a temperature of 20°C or more. Note that the warmer the water the more quickly the gum with gel. At 20°C is could take up to 15-45 minutes with mixing.
- Shake until the granules completely dissolve (as long as necessary depending on the kind of apparatus used). Tests reveal the emulsifier rotor/stator (hand mixer or stick blender ) is by far the most efficient and therefore the most recommended.
Suggested percentage: 0.25 – 2.0%
- 0.8 to 1.5% for standard gels
- 0.2 to 0.8% to stabilize emulsions
- 1.5 to 2.0% to suspend in cleansing systems
- 0.3 to 0.6% for spray-able solutions / suspensions
- 0.5 to 1.5% to stabilize / thicken cleansing systems
At the stage where Sclerotium Gum is completely dissolved the other ingredients in the formula should be added (oily phase, actives, etc.). It will then take 24 hours to obtain a stable viscosity.
Notice that heating the water speeds up the gelling of clerotium Gum
Viscosity of an Sclerotium Gum gel according to temperature of water
The use of 0.25 to 2.0% Naturajel provides viscosity of 60 to 12,000cps. We can thus create more or less a supple, more or less fluid textures, depending on the final product you wish to obtain. From 0.8%,the aqueous preparations obtained form a solid gel.
Stability of Sclerotium Gum gel
In Extreme Physical and Chemical Conditions formulating with gelling agents always creates stabilizing issues for the product when in contact with certain raw materials (electrolytes, alcohol, etc.) or in extreme pH conditions. Most of the other gelling agents present a good stability towards some of these parameters, however,
Sclerotium Gum gel has the quality of being stable in all situations. This has been proven by viscosity measurements carried out on gels made in typical conditions with 1.0% Sclerotium Gum later adding the various elements to be studied (salt, ethanol, etc.).
Presence of Ethanol
The gel remains very stable until it reaches a concentration of 15% ethanol. The gelling ability decreases for greater quantities. Formulating alcoholic products is thus possible, however Naturajel ™ must first be sprinkled into water, and the alcohol should be added once the Amigel® network is formed.
Presence of Propylene Glycol
In the presence of 1 to 25% propylene glycol, the gel presents high stability.
Presence of Salts
Tests have been carried out for a concentration in NaCl of 1 to 12%. Strong stability can benoticed on the whole range of concentrations. This characteristic makes manufacturing finished products containing seawater possible.
pH
Viscosity measurements were taken for pHs varying between 2 and 11. Noted was a high stability rate, even for extreme pH. These results are exceptional for a gelling agent.
Presence of Oils
Essential oils are extremely concentrated products which should be integrated into the formulas in small quantities. Otherwise, they can destabilize the finished products. Sclerotium Gum gel was tested with different concentrations containing 0.05% to 4.0% Lavender essential oil, without a solubilizer. Up to 3.0% of Lavender essential oil can be stably incorporated into Sclerotium Gum gel. This is a very high dosage for a finished cosmetic product.
Sclerotium gum is obtained through a complex fermentation process. Due to its properties it is currently used in the food and pharmaceutical industry in applications such as targeted drugs delivery and visco-surgery [4]. One of the most popular sources for sclerotium gum is a parasitic fungus called Athelia rolfsii. Sclerotium rolfsii contains a neutral polysaccharide called scleroglucan which has jellifying and rheological properties by means of polymerization [5]. Sclerotium gum is an excellent thickening agent used in high-end cosmetics, but also compatible with DYI cosmetics, especially due to its stability, ease of use and efficiency.
Compared to other thickening, jellifying and rheological substances, sclerotium gum is superior in several parameters. Due to the polymerization of polysaccharides, such as scleroglucan, the gum is able to form highly stable gels. Unlike other agents, sclerotium gum is very stable with temperature and pH [6]. Amongst 140 polymers tested in an industrial application the sclerotium gum solution ranked highest, maintaining its viscosity at 90% after 500 days at 90 degrees [7].
Sclerotium gum is ideal for topical delivery of active ingredients. Studies have shown that the active is an effective emulsifier and suspension stabilizer [8]. Its advantage is that it provides potent stabilization and emulsification, with great results in ensuring even distribution and concentration of the active ingredients and is 100% natural. Furthermore, the main active ingredient scleroglucan is a beta glucan. Beta glucans are active ingredients that provide numerous benefits for the skin such as: better penetration of the epidermis, enhanced moisturization and improved overall appearance [9]. Several studies showed that beta glucans have strong immune-modulating, antioxidant and radio-protective effects which make them ideal for cosmetic products that aim to protect and repair the skin against UVR damage [10].
Scleroglucan also stimulates immunity by enhancing macrophage production and activity. Laboratory studies showed that scleroglucan is the most effective antitumor agent among the exopolysaccharides. In vivo studies have shown that scleroglucan is the most potent immune-stimulant, anti-tumor, anti-neoplastic and anti-microbial effects amongst the beta-D-glucans [6]. In topical treatments all these effects are useful in fighting keratocytes mutation and malignancy proliferation. Furthermore, due to macrophage activation and anti-bacterial properties scleroglucan also supports wound healing. Several studies have shown that beta-glucans, including scleroglucan, supports keratinocytes regeneration, stimulates collagen production and deposits and enhances the immune response on wound site [11].
Scleroglucan also supports and stimulates the barrier function by generating lipid formation. Studies have shown that it increases ceramides and cholesterol levels in the skin and implicitly it supports the lipid barrier. In-vivo research showed that scleroglucan leads to better moisturization [12]. Clinical studies focussing on polysaccharides including scleroglucan showed that they balance the trans-epidermal water loss reduction (TEWL) preventing skin dehydration, excessive dryness and supporting the barrier function [13].