Supplier of: skin actives, cosmetic ingredients, cosmeceuticals, active ingredients, and skin care ingredients, for DIY skin care and cosmetics, and homemade skin care products.
Reviews
Excellent base Ceramide 2, 3, 6II Lamellar Liquid Crystal PRE emulsion! It went very well for me and my daughter, she has atopic dermatitis. Literally on the third day of applying the cream (which is made up of Multi Lamellar Base Cream V2 Carrier Oil Free, NO Polymer 60%, 10% black currant oil, rice bran oil 5%, 1% of the complex of ceramides and water), the skin of my daughter got clean and healthy. I have noticeably narrowed pores, face was moist and disappeared on my forehead shine. Now Mul.. ...»
Lidia
Just recently ordered this and LOVE! Green Tea EGCG truly is one of the most fantastic skincare actives out there. Very difficult to find good quality product (90%) and even harder to actually solubilize it! Love that it comes in pre-dissolved solution. I enjoy adding it at 1% (so 11% sol) to my serum formulations containing Niacinamide 5% + NAG 3%. Excellent for oily acne prone skin. *Only gripe... because the Pre-Dissolved Solution is SO heavy in propanediol (10 parts Propanediol for 1 part E.. ...»
Victor
Wonderful base cream! Only multi-lamellar structured cream I've found on the market. Cream itself is lightweight (no oil) yet very conditioning/hydrating. Easily accepts water-soluble active ingredients as well as oil-soluble ones. I've even pushed the additional ingred % up to 20 (meaning 80% this cream, 20% added) without any separation issues. Ideal base cream for delivering actives. Personal favorite recipe calls for 5% straight Grapeseed Oil with 5% SebumREG oil active + Panthenol 1% + E Ac.. ...»
Vic
excellence product, very good and made my skin soft and smooth just like baby's skin. Thank you john.. ...»
nky
Im 45 years old; average looking skin for my age. Applied a small pea sized amount of Sea Kelp Bioferment to my face full strength in the am after washing my face of previous night makeup.; let face "dry". Then aplied my foundation as always. Noticed my thick, heavy foundation applied more easily and smooth. Keep in mind this is DAY TWO of me using this. TWO women at work ( separate departments) commented how wonderful my face looked! One specifically came up to me and asked what I was.. ...»
Jessie Sandford
The Pre-dissolved solution is excellent. Ferulic Acid is an amazing skincare ingredient (potent antioxidant, protects other sensitive antioxidants from light degradation, UV protection) but is absolutely ineffective if it isn't solubilized correctly. Makes adding to any Serum Base or w/o emulsion easy. Love using it (at 6%; so active 0.5%) with the Resveratrol Fluid (10%; active 1%) and Green Tea Extr for potent nighttime brightening treatment... ...»
James
Carla, Many medications can be and are applied topically by prescription. With that in mind, realize that this particular ingredient is wonderful but understand that this is indeed one of those that may create sensitivity with those already using topical hormones or just use sparingly and see how you respond. Sorry for the very late response..... ...»
Angela
Many thanks for the Silicone DM. This product is lovely quality; it is light, silky, and leaves no residue at all. I use it in the base recipe for a mouldable polymer that I then use to make a simulated 'Amber' for bead making. At the end of this process I have a silky, translucent polymer plus the most gorgeous hands in the studio ! My thanks again, Helen.. ...»
HELEN pEAKE
Very good product! Only been using it for a short time, its already made a difference. .. ...»
Bronwynne
muy satisfecho profesionales, y envio sin problemas ,ya que soy de españa producto bien envasado , un placer ser cliente porque dan comnfianza y calidad.gracias un saludo.. ...»
daniel
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Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids)

Ceramide Complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) is a  formulation designed to restore the barrier function, address TEWL and to maintain an overall healthy Stratum Corneum.  It contains 2% plant-derived lipids in a lamellar liquid crystalline form. The lipids are a combination of phospholipids and sphingolipids (minimum 10%) that easily penetrate skin due to their structure and nourish it. Both phospholipids and sphingolipids are fundamental elements in corneocytes membrane and interstitial lamellar fluid and that is why Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) is highly efficient in restoring the barrier function. The content in natural sphingolipids is also a plus as  sphingolipids are key components to ceramides. Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) has a lamellar presentation form for efficient SC delivery and penetration. It is easily added to any cream or lotion, and can also be combined with our Ceramide 2, 3, 6II Lamellar Liquid Crystal PRE Emulsion

Key benefits of ceramides in skin care:

•    Moisturizing and hydration
•    Restore barrier function
 
Product Code: BulkActives
Net weight: 50g / 1.76oz
Availability: In Stock
Price: $28.95


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Ceramides complex in DIY skin care

Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) supplies skin with structural elements and supports the recovery and maintenance of the skin’s healthy barrier function and water-holding capacity. Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) contains 2% lipids in lamellar liquid crystalline form. The plant-derived lipid mixture consists of phospholipids and at least 10% sphingolipids, and is easily able to penetrate skin. It also moisturizes hair. It is easily added to any cream or lotion, and can also be combined with our Ceramide 2, 3, 6II Lamellar Liquid Crystal PRE Emulsion

Ceramides in Healthy Skin

The past decade in skin care research brought fundamental findings about how our skin works and how to address skin health. It seems that the deeper research goes one conclusion becomes clear: the skin is extremely complex and nourishing and repairing it needs a multi-level approach. Efficiently getting through the skin barrier always requires a combination between several active ingredients in specific recipes and ratios. Better said, complex problems need complex solutions.

The main ingredients used to address SC, TEWL and barrier functions are Ceramides, Cholesterol and Fatty acids.

Ceramides are sphingolipids based molecules that are found in virtually every tissue, where they exert structural functions and participate in important signaling pathways.[1][2] Contrary to the small amount present in other tissues, Stratum Corneum (SC the outermost layer of the skin) contains relatively high level of ceramides, 40-50% of the total lipids.[1][2] There are 11 subclasses of ceramide species identified from human SC.[3]. There exact differences between subclasses has not yet been fully elucidated, but ceramides with longer chain fatty acids appear to have stronger structural roles due to their ability to pack tighter [4], firmer.

SC, once thought as a passive barrier composed of dead cells, has now been recognized for at least five functional roles: immune response, antioxidant barrier, antimicrobial through certain peptides, photo-damage protection, and permeability maintenance.[5] It is helpful to think of the SC as bricks and mortar, with the bricks being the corneocytes (the “dead” cells) and mortar being the lipid bilayers [5], but then again, the mortar needs to be variable to address the needs of the cells.

The intactness of the lipid layers determines the barrier properties, and ceramides, together with cholesterols and fatty acids in these lipid layers, play a critical role in maintaining water content and permeability.[6] Diseases associated with water barrier dysfunction such as atopic dermatitis/eczema, irritant/contact dermatitis, psoriasis, rosacea, acne, xerosis, dandruff, and ichthyosis are characterized by reduced ceramide content or altered ceramide profile,[2][5][6] largely due to abnormal enzymatic activities involved in ceramide metabolism.

For example, in atopic dermatitis, there is a mark decrease in ceramide 1 and 3 and hence water loss [2][5]. In psoriasis, there is a decrease in ceramide 1, 3, 4, 5II, 6I, and 7, accompanied by an increase in ceramide 2I, 2II, and 5I, with a net result of water loss.[2][5] In healthy skin, disruption of the epidermal barrier (e.g. change in pH, UV irradiation, etc.) which induces water loss across the skin would lead to increases of ceramides and other lipids (both from the lipid store and through new synthesis) and partially restore the water homeostasis within a few hours [3][5].
Treating skin lipids improved the water-retention function, and among the components present in the lipid mixture, ceramides are the most effective ones. However, there are reports showing that ceramides need to be combined with cholesterol and fatty acids to be beneficial [5][8][9][10], and standalone treatments are not often effective[11][12].

Cholesterol is an organic molecule biosynthesized by animal cells, being an essential structural component of their cell membranes. Its role is mainly to maintain membrane structural integrity and fluidity, enabling animal cells to change shape and move (unlike plants and bacteria which have restrictive cell walls). Cholesterol also serves as a precursor for the biosynthesis of steroid hormones, bile acids and Vitamin D [13].  Cholesterol lays in the composition of the skin surface along triglycerides, fatty acids, squalene, wax esters, diglycerides and cholesterol esters [14].

The major lipids found in the composition of SC that contribute to the water permeability barrier are ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Although the ceramides were once thought to be the key to skin moisturizing (because it holds 50% of the SC lipids), studies now suggest that no particular lipid is more important than the others. It appears that the proportion of fatty acids, ceramides, and cholesterol is the most important parameter [15][16]. Cholesterol in lipid mixtures is an efficient treatment for a wide variety of skin barrier disorders such as: environment-induced dermatitis, environment-induced xerosis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis, psoriasis, seboreic dermatitis and others [17].

Cholesterol alone showed statistically relevant better results than urea in topically treating ichthyosis – a severe skin condition with symptoms as extreme skin dryness and scaling. In an open perspective half-side trial 90% of the subjects showed improvement under 10% cholesterol cream topical treatments. Cholesterol levels content loss also increases naturally with aging and during winter times [18]. Dynamic barrier studies have shown that the most profound lipid biosynthetic abnormality in aging was in cholesterol rather than ceramide or fatty acid biosynthesis. It has been shown that a cholesterol-dominant lipid mixture accelerates barrier recovery in aged skin whereas a fatty-acid-dominant mixture delays barrier recovery. In young skin, any of the lipid species can be the dominant lipid and the barrier will recover more quickly [19].

Fatty acids have been proved to be vital for the skin since the late 20’s. In a series of studies started in 1929 George and Mildred Burr showed the correlation between the fatty acids, TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) and skin health [20]. Fatty acids are scientifically defined as a carboxylic aid with a long aliphatic chain that can be either saturated or unsaturated [21]. Fatty acids are not usually found in animal tissue in their form but rather as derivate esters (triglycerides, phospholipids, cholesterol). The fatty acids that cannot be produced and metabolized by the human tissues but necessary to several tissues and organs are called essential fatty acids (EFA) [22].

In the lower layers of the epidermis, keratinocytes metabolism (division, differentiation, and life cycle) takes place. In this level EFAs are incorporated into epidermal phospholipids in the plasma membranes of keratinocytes and membranous organelles [23]. SC is comprised of terminally differentiated keratinocytes, called corneocytes, encased in a protein and lipid matrix. This extracellular lipid matrix that provides the barrier functions of skin. Differentiating keratinocytes deliver barrier lipid to the SC by way of a membrane-bound secretory organelle called a lamellar body (LB). LBs contain a mixture of lipids, which are extruded from the LB and arranged into sheets (lamellae) that encase the SC cells [23, 24].

Further research based on Burr & Burr findings also showed that when it comes to the SC and the barrier function, not all EFA are equally important. The most important EFA in the epidermis, including SC are the PUFA (poli-unsaturated fatty acids) which play a vital role in TEWL and barrier function [23,24]. Linoleic Acid is the main PUFA in the epidermis is delivered to the SC as amide compounds (ceramides) [25, 26]. As previously shown, ceramides hold up to 50% lipids in the SC, and their direct link with linoleic acid shows that PUFA are vital to barrier function.

Furthermore, studies showed that topical application of oil is an effective means of delivering EFAs to the skin and, eventually, to the rest of body. Because a significant portion of ingested EFAs may be oxidized by the liver (up to 60% of ALA and 20% of LA [27] before reaching peripheral tissues, topical application may be a more efficient route of delivery for skin effects, especially during deficiency [28].

Ceramide complex.

Going back to the old “bricks and mortar” analogy, after looking at all the ingredients that are vital for a healthy SC and barrier function, it becomes clear that the mortar is not just mortar, but it is a combination that complex and alive. Better said, ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are derivatives of the same essential ingredients that are vital for the skin because they make up the walls of the cells. In other words, all these three components “speak” the language of the corneocytes because they have the same ingredients. Research has demonstrated that even if these ingredients work well separately, the work together better.

The importance of concomitant use of cholesterol together with ceramides and fatty acids in a optimized ratio was emphasized in several studies. It was demonstrated that a topically applied mixture of SC lipids was incorporated in nucleated layer of epidermis and accelerated the repair of the barrier after being damaged thus showing the efficiency of the ceramide-cholesterol-fatty acids topical treatment by regulating endogenous factors in the epidermis [29]. In acetone damaged skin the application of a combination of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol resulted in normal barrier recovery. The study showed the specific requirements of selected SC lipid mixtures for optimized barrier repair. The use of physiologic lipids according to these parameters could lead to new forms of topical treatment for several skin conditions of heterogeneous origin triggered by abnormal barrier function [29]. A follow-up study revealed that an optimal lipid mixture is capable of accelerating barrier repair following disruption of the barrier by chemical (solvent treatment) or mechanical (tape stripping) damage [30].  

So, what does Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) bring new?

Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) is designed to efficiently go through the skin barrier and deliver highly compatible nutrients, with excellent results. The key to its efficiency delivering structural elements to the skin – elements which enable a healthy barrier function and supports the skin’s water holding capacity. So, in another words, this particular ceramide complex delivers “intelligent construction materials” for the skin to repair itself and function properly.  Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) contains 2% plant-derived lipids in a lamellar liquid crystalline form. The lipids are a combination of phospholipids and sphingolipids (minimum 10%) that easily penetrate skin due to their structure and nourish it.

In plain words, Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) is designed to be efficiently delivered to the SC because of the lamellar presentation and once efficiently sent to the corneocytes it has the right active ingredients to repair and restore the barrier function. The active ingredients meet the 1:3:1 ratio (ceramides : cholesterol : fatty acids) which showed to be the most efficient in repairing the barrier function [31].
Concluding, Ceramide complex (with Phospholipids, Sphingolipids) delivers the three vital ingredients for a healthy barrier function in a single presentation and in the most efficient ratio (1:3:1) making it ideal for DIY formulations.

 
INCI: Water, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate 
Appearance: viscous liquid
Stability : stable in pH 3.0 - 10.0
 
Solubility: add to cream
Suggested percentages: 5.0 - 10.0%

Storage: Store in fridge, do not freeze.
Country of origin: Germany
[1]    Y. Uchida, “Ceramide signaling in mammalian epidermis,” Biochim. Biophys. Acta, vol. 1841, no. 3, pp. 453–462, Mar. 2014.
[2]    M. J. Choi and H. I. Maibach, “Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin,” Am. J. Clin. Dermatol., vol. 6, no. 4, pp. 215–223, 2005.
[3]    Y. Mizutani, S. Mitsutake, K. Tsuji, A. Kihara, and Y. Igarashi, “Ceramide biosynthesis in keratinocyte and its role in skin function,” Biochimie, vol. 91, no. 6, pp. 784–790, Jun. 2009.
 [4]    K.-M. Joo, G.-W. Nam, S. Y. Park, J. Y. Han, H.-J. Jeong, S.-Y. Lee, H. K. Kim, and K.-M. Lim, “Relationship between cutaneous barrier function and ceramide species in human SC,” J. Dermatol. Sci., vol. 60, no. 1, pp. 47–50, Oct. 2010.
 [5]    L. Coderch, O. López, A. de la Maza, and J. L. Parra, “Ceramides and skin function,” Am. J. Clin. Dermatol., vol. 4, no. 2, pp. 107–129, 2003.
[6]    C. R. Harding, A. E. Moore, J. S. Rogers, H. Meldrum, A. E. Scott, and F. P. McGlone, “Dandruff: a condition characterized by decreased levels of intercellular lipids in scalp SC and impaired barrier function,” Arch. Dermatol. Res., vol. 294, no. 5, pp. 221–230, Jul. 2002.
[7]    A. M. Goldstein and W. Abramovits, “Ceramides and the SC: structure, function, and new methods to promote repair,” Int. J. Dermatol., vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 256–259, Apr. 2003.
 [8]    L. Yang, M. Mao-Qiang, M. Taljebini, P. M. Elias, and K. R. Feingold, “Topical SC lipids accelerate barrier repair after tape stripping, solvent treatment and some but not all types of detergent treatment,” Br. J. Dermatol., vol. 133, no. 5, pp. 679–685, Nov. 1995.
[9]    K. De Paepe, D. Roseeuw, and V. Rogiers, “Repair of acetone- and sodium lauryl sulphate-damaged human skin barrier function using topically applied emulsions containing barrier lipids,” J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. JEADV, vol. 16, no. 6, pp. 587–594, Nov. 2002.
[10]    M. de Pera, L. Coderch, J. Fonollosa, A. de la Maza, and J. L. Parra, “Effect of internal wool lipid liposomes on skin repair,” Skin Pharmacol. Appl. Skin Physiol., vol. 13, no. 3–4, pp. 188–195, Aug. 2000.
[11]    L. Coderch, M. De Pera, J. Fonollosa, A. De La Maza, and J. Parra, “Efficacy of SC lipid supplementation on human skin,” Contact Dermatitis, vol. 47, no. 3, pp. 139–146, Sep. 2002.
[12]    M. Man MQ, K. R. Feingold, C. R. Thornfeldt, and P. M. Elias, “Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair,” J. Invest. Dermatol., vol. 106, no. 5, pp. 1096–1101, May 1996.
[13]    I. Hanukoglu, "Steroidogenic enzymes: structure, function, and role in regulation of steroid hormone biosynthesis.", Journal of  Steroid Biochemistry and Molecular Biology , 43, pp: 779–804, 1992
[14]    D.T. Downing, J.S. Strauss, P.E. Pochi , “Variability in the chemical composition of human skin surface lipids”, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, pp: 53-322, 1969
[15] 4.     L. Bauman, “Cosmetic Dermatology – Principles and Pactice”, second edition, ISBN: 978-0-07-164128-9
[16] 5.    J. Leyden, A. Rawlings, “Skin Moisturization”, pp214-221,CRC Press, ISBN: 13-978-0-8247-4413-7, 2002
[17]    M. Loden, “Role of Topical Emollients and Moisturizers in the Treatment of Dry Skin Barrier Disorders:, American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 11, pp 771-788, 2003
[18]    G. Imokawa, S. Akasaki, M. Hattori, and N. Yoshizuka, “Selective recovery of deranged water-holding properties by SC lipids,” Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 87, pp. 758–761, 1986
[19]     A.V. Rawlings, “Advances in Dry Skin SC Biology and Moisturization”, Cosmetics and Toiletry”, 228, pp:42-52, 2003
[20]    Burr GO, Burr MM. On the nature and role of the fatty acids essential in nutrition. J Biol Chem. 1930;86:587-621.
[21]     Moss, G. P.; Smith, P. A. S.; Tavernier, D. (1997). IUPAC Compendium of Chemical Terminology. Pure and Applied Chemistry. 67 (2nd ed.). International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry. pp. 1307–1375. doi:10.1351/pac199567081307.
[22]    Robert S. Goodhart; Maurice E. Shils (1980). Modern Nutrition in Health and Disease (6th ed.). Philadelphia: Lea and Febinger. pp. 134–138.
[23]    Wertz PW. Epidermal lipids. Semin Dermatol. 1992;11:106-113.
[24]     Feingold KR. The outer frontier: the importance of lipid metabolism in the skin. J Lipid Res. 2009;50 Suppl:S417-422.
[25]    Gray GM, Yardley HJ. Lipid compositions of cells isolated from pig, human, and rat epidermis. J Lipid Res. 1975;16:434-440.   
[26]    Hansen HS, Jensen B. Essential function of linoleic acid esterified in acylglucosylceramide and acylceramide in maintaining the epidermal water permeability barrier. Evidence from feeding studies with oleate, linoleate, arachidonate, columbinate and alpha-linolenate. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1985;834:357-363.   
[27]    Press M, Hartop PJ, Prottey C. Correction of essential fatty-acid deficiency in man by the cutaneous application of sunflower-seed oil. Lancet. 1974;1:597-598
[28]    Sinclair AJ, Attar-Bashi NM, Li D. What is the role of alpha-linolenic acid for mammals? Lipids. 2002;37:1113-1123
[29]    M. Mao-Qiang, K. Feingold, C. Thornfeldt, P. Elias, “Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair”, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 106, pp 1096-1101,1996
[30]    L. Yang, M. Mao-Qiang, M. Taljebini, C. Thornfeldt, P. Elias, K. Feingold, “Topical SC lipids accelerate barrier repair after tape stripping, solvent treatment and some but not all types of detergent treatment”, British Journal of Dermatology, 133, pp 679-685, 1995
[31]    Zettersten, Elizabeth M. et al. "Optimal Ratios Of Topical Stratum Corneum Lipids Improve Barrier Recovery In Chronologically Aged Skin". Journal Of The American Academy Of Dermatology, vol 37, no. 3, 1997, pp. 403-408. Elsevier BV, doi:10.1016/s0190-9622(97)70140-3. Accessed 24 Oct 2018.
 

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