"Irradiation with ultraviolet-A (UVA) ray at doses of 20-100 J/cm(2) diminished the cell viability of human keratinocytes HaCaT and human melanoma cells HMV-II, both of which were protected by pre-irradiational administration with the ascorbic acid (Asc) derivative, VC-IP (2,3,5,6-O-tetra-2'-hexyldecanoyl-L-ascorbic acid; vitamin C-isopalmityl tetraester), which is the first lipoidic-liquiform pro-vitamin C by itself that is materialized by esterization of all four intramolecular hydroxyl groups of an Asc molecule with branched chain fatty groups, resulting in molecular fluidity higher than that of the corresponding straight chains. Irradiation with UVA to HaCaT keratinocytes was shown to cause the formation of 8-hydroxydeoxyguanosine (8-OHdG), translocation of phosphatidylserine in the inner layer into the outer layer of cell membrane, and lowering of a mitochondrial membrane potential, all of which were repressed by pre-irradiational administration with VC-IP. Expression of p53 gene, another hallmark of UV-induced DNA damages, was promoted by UVA irradiation to the keratinocytes but also repressed by VC-IP. Administration with VC-IP of 10-50 microM to human fibroblasts NHDF achieved the enhancement of collagen synthesis, repression of matrix metalloprotease-2/9 activity, and increasing of intracellular Asc contents more markedly than that with Asc itself of the same concentrations. Thus UVA-induced diverse harmful effects could be prevented by VC-IP, which was suggested to ensue intrinsically from the persistent enrichment of intracellular Asc, through esterolytic conversion of VC-IP to a free-form Asc molecule, resulting in relief to UVA-caused oxidative stress."

"BACKGROUND: Vitamin C, which is a strong anti-oxidant, plays an important role in maintaining physiological states. In dermatology, Vitamin C is used for treatment of various skin problems such as de-pigmentation of hyperpigmented spots. However, Vitamin C has limited stability and permeability, and development of a Vitamin C derivative with improved properties is needed. OBJECTIVE: We evaluated the effect of a lipophilic Vitamin C derivative, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), on ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin pigmentation, to determine its potential as a more effective form of Vitamin C. METHODS: The release of Vitamin C from VC-IP was examined using a reconstructed skin model following topical application of VC-IP. Anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory activities of VC-IP were tested in cultured human keratinocytes. Subsequently, clinical test was done to clarify the effect of VC-IP on UVB-induced skin pigmentation. RESULTS: VC-IP released Vitamin C in physiological conditions and worked as pro-Vitamin C. In subsequent experiments, we found that VC-IP suppressed the elevation of intracellular peroxide after UVB irradiation, and enhanced cellular tolerance against UVB and reactive oxygen species such as hydrogen peroxide and tert-butyl hydroperoxide. Furthermore, VC-IP reduced the production of interleukin-1alpha and prostaglandin E2 in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and suppressed melanocyte proliferation in conditioned culture medium prepared from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. Finally, in a clinical study, topical application of a 3% VC-IP cream for 3 weeks suppressed pigmentation after UVB irradiation. CONCLUSIONS: These results demonstrate that VC-IP is a precursor of Vitamin C, and effectively suppresses UVB-induced skin pigmentation, possibly through its anti-oxidative activity."

2. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Dermatology Associates of San Diego County, Inc. 92024, USA.

"The objective of this study is to determine if the topical use of a vitamin C preparation can stimulate the skin to repair photodamage and result in clinically visible differences, as well as microscopically visible improvement.

METHODS: Ten patients applied in a double-blind manner a newly formulated vitamin C complex having 10% ascorbic acid (water soluble) and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (lipid soluble) in an anhydrous polysilicone gel base to one-half of the face and the inactive polysilicone gel base to the opposite side. Clincial evaluation of wrinkling, pigmentation, inflammation, and hydration was performed prior to the study and at weeks 4, 8, and 12. Two mm punch biopsies of the lateral cheeks were performed at 12 weeks in four patients and stained with hematoxylin and eosin, as well as in situ hybridization studies using an anti-sense probe for mRNA for type I collagen. A questionnaire was also completed by each patient.

RESULTS: A statistically significant improvement of the vitamin C-treated side was seen in the decreased photoaging scores of the cheeks (P = 0.006) and the peri-oral area (P = 0.01). The peri-orbital area improved bilaterally, probably indicating improved hydration. The overall facial improvement of the vitamin C side was statistically significant (P = 0.01). Biopsies showed increased Grenz zone collagen, as well as increased staining for mRNA for type I collagen. No patients were found to have any evidence of inflammation. Hydration was improved bilaterally. Four patients felt that the vitamin C-treated side improved unilaterally. No patient felt the placebo side showed unilateral improvement.

CONCLUSION: This formulation of vitamin C results in clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in wrinkling when used topically for 12 weeks. This clinical improvement correlates with biopsy evidence of new collagen formation." Read more

Maia Campos PM, Gianeti MD, Kanashiro A, Lucisano-Valim YM, Gaspar LR., Universidade de Sao Paulo, Faculdade de Ciencias Farmaceuticas de Ribeirao Preto, Brazil.

"A new tendency in cosmetic formulations is the association of botanical extracts and vitamins to improve skin conditions by synergic effects. The objective of this study was to determine the antioxidant activity of associated bioflavonoids, retinyl palmitate (RP), tocopheryl acetate (TA) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), as well as their photoprotective effects in preventing increased erythema, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation in hairless mouse skin. The antioxidant activity of solutions containing the association or each substance separately was evaluated in vitro by a chemiluminescence assay. The photoprotective effect was evaluated by means of in vivo tests. Dorsal skin of hairless mice was treated daily by topical applications for 5 days with formulations containing or not containing (vehicle) the flavonoid-vitamins association (5%). The skin was irradiated (UVA/B) 15 minutes after the last application. The results showed that bioflavonoids had in vitro antioxidant properties and also that when they were associated with vitamins their antioxidant activity was more pronounced. On the other hand, erythema and UV damage to the permeability barrier function (TEWL) was not significantly reduced by previous treatment with the flavonoid-vitamin-association formulations, when compared to the irradiated vehicle-treated area. However, the treatment protected the skin from UV damage because it reduced the number of sunburn cells, when compared to the vehicle-treated area. Finally, the association of vitamins and bioflavonoids added to a dermocosmetic formulation showed a relevant biological activity in terms of photoprotection, because the association of bioflavonoids and vitamins acted by different mechanisms, such as antioxidation and absorption of UV radiation, which suggests its use in antiaging and photoprotective products."

Skin care studies on Ascorbyl Tretaisopalmitate: an ingredient used for anti-acne, as an antioxidant, for collagen production, skin lightening & brightening, to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and for sun damage repair.