Product details

Appearance: Colorless to pale yellow liquid

CAS# 183476-82-6

INCI Name: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Chem. Name: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Suggested percentage: .5% to 7%
Solubility: excellent solubility in carrier oils, mineral oils, ethanol, silicone.  Insoluble in water, propylene glycol, glycerin.

Inorganic Organic balance (IOB) : 0.274 H

LB: 2.74 (IOB 0.274 x 10 = HLB 2.74)

• This oil soluble product can easily be added to a base cream or lotion.
• It can also be emulsified with Gelmaker PLUS and a 1% HA mixture to create a very light 'serum'.
• Combine with L-ascorbic acid in a silicone base for an Anhydrous Vitamin C combo.

Storage: Cool place. Do not freeze.

Country of origin: Japan

Anhydrous vitamin C combo 

L-ascorbic acid with Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

in a waterless silicone base

References:

• Stable topical ascorbic acid compositions.  (Enter this patent number: 6146664 , in the search field).

• Stabilization of ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives and/or extracts containing ascorbic acid for topical use

"Ten patients having facial photodamage were recruited for a double-blind pilot study of a newly formulated vitamin C ,complex having 10% ascorbic acid, a water soluble acid, and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a lipid soluble analog.

Both of these are combined in an anhydrous polysilicone gel base, which acts as a 'dermal patch,' releasing the water soluble acid slowly and the lipid soluble analog rapidly. The active vitamin C complex was applied to one side of the face and the inactive placebo base was applied to the opposite side of the face once a day." Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatology Associates of San Diego County, Inc. 92024, USA. Read more

About Vitamin C derivatives

"There is some evidence that combining water soluble and oil-soluble forms of vitamin C may provide synergistic skin benefits through broader antioxidant protection and better penetration." Dr. G. Todorov, Anhydrous Vitamin C Combo, smartskincare.com

"Most vitamin C derivatives on the market, including ascorbyl palmitate and magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate, consist of the ascorbic acid fragment (ascorbyl) and a fragment of another acid (e.g. palmitate or phosphate). Recent research indicates that new vitamin C derivatives, such as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, consisting of multiple chemical fragments bound to a single ascorbic acid fragment may work even better. These new derivatives are more stable compared to both vitamin C and older derivatives. Furthermore, some of these newcomers (particularly the so-called tetrasubstituted lipophilic ascorbates) also appear to be more powerful boosters of collagen synthesis."  Dr. G. Todorov, Vitamin C Derivatives, smartskincare.com

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, also known as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, is a Vitamin C ester with better improved absorption and stability qualities. It is used as an antioxidant, a whitening agent (for skin lightening and brightening), in anti-acne formulations, and it promotes collagen production. Unlike absorbic acid, it will not exfoliate of cause irritation.