FUNCTIONALS

EcoFriendly, sustainable, synthetic Alpha Bisabolol , which offers all the benefits of natural Alpha Bisabolol, is now available.
For thousands of years, chamomile has been a prized component of many ancient therapies.  The active ingredient of chamomile, α-bisabolol, is a lightly floral-scented essential oil extracted from the Candeia tree, a tropical relative of cammomile, in modern times. In order to produce 100 tons of α-bisabolol, 850 hectares of timber must be harvested . Due to deforestation amid a global high demand, synthetic sources of α-bisabolol are now available.  New generations of the synthetic compound offer 85% α-bisabolol content and all of the benefits of the natural product.  Easily absorbed by the skin, α-bisabolol is a potent anti-microbial agent, anti-inflammatory, and potent wound-care agent.   It has valuable applications in soaps, lotions, soothing face creams, and wound-healing products

Key benefits of Sustainable Alpha Bisabolol in skin care:

• Anti-bacterial [1] [2] [3] [6]
• Anti-acne [1] [2] [3] [6] [7]
• Anti-inflammatory [1] [2] [3] [7]
• Moisturizing and hydration [9]
• Sun damage repair [1] [7]
• Wound healing support [2] [9]
• Reduce rosacea

Coco betaine [cocamidopropyl betaine] is a surfactant derived from coconut oil. It produces rich, dense foam that conditions skin. It is one of the most widely used amphoteric surfactants, which have both positive and negative charges. Coco betaine is mild and can be easily used in combination with other surfactants, such as the sugar-derived decyl glucoside. When combined with irritating surfactants such as sodium laureth sulfate, it can reduce irritation and soften skin. In its pure form, it is non-irritating to skin and eyes and has low toxicity, so it is suitable for a wide range of products, including baby and oral care products. An effective, gentle and high foaming facial wash is made by blending Coco Betaine with the extremely mild, new generation surfactant, decyl glucoside.

Coco Betaine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) in skin care:

• Amphoteric surfactant ^{[1] [2] [4] [5] [6] [8]}
• Highly water soluble in wide pH range ^[8]
• Primary surfactant or co-surfactant ^{[1] [2] [4]}
• Excellent conditioning & antistatic agent ^[1]
• Good detergency ^[6]
• Non-irritating ^{[3] [5] [9]}
• Excellent foaming properties and foam stabilization ^[1]
• Hard water compatibility ^[1]
• Reduction of irritation of anionic surfactants to skin and eyes ^{[1] [2] [3] [4] [6]}
• Viscosity builder for anionic surfactants solutions ^[1]
• Compatible with anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants ^{[1] [2] [4]}
• Excellent biodegradability ^[1]

Dimethyl isosorbide [DMI] is a solvent made from starch. It increases the solubility of many different active ingredients and increases their penetration into the skin. This reduces the amount of an active ingredient needed to have an effect, which is particularly good for reducing the irritation of harsher actives. Increasing skin penetration also increases the activity of a formulation, in several cases. Dimethyl isosorbide improves the overall properties of formulations, including skin feel and consistency. It can be used in many different types of products and is compatible with many compounds, including non-ionic surfactants.

Key benefits of Dimethyl Isosorbide (Arlasolve DMI) in skin care

• Enhanced penetration of actives to the epidermis, enabling targeted delivery [1] [2] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9]
• A lower level of skin irritation with a reduction in the required concentration level of aggressive actives [4] [8]
• Improved formulation shelf stability [8]
• Miscibility with most organic solvents and non-ionic surfactants.[8]
• Incorporation within many product forms, including clear gels [4]
• A long history of safe usage.
• Ability to transport water soluble actives into skin, without recrystallization of the active [4] [8]

EK300 is a non-formaldehyde releasing, paraben and phenoxyethanol based, liquid preservative for cosmetic products.  It has a broad, balanced spectrum of effect against bacteria, yeasts, and mould fungi. It acts even in low concentrations and can be used at low (acidic) pH. On account of its limited solubility in water, in purely aqueous systems it can only be dissolved in
low concentrations. Particularly in formulations with a low water content, heating to 60–70 °C may be sufficient for incorporation of a sufficient amount into the aqueous phase. In formulations that contain surfactants, it can be dissolved in the surfactants before the addition of water and other components. Also sold as:Phenonip, Euxyl K 300.

Parabens have a bad reputation, mainly due to a 2004 study, which basically claimed that parabens in underarm deoderants casued cancer. However, researchers at the National Cancer Institute (NCI), a part of the National Institutes of Health, are not aware of any conclusive evidence linking the use of underarm antiperspirants or deodorants and the subsequent development of breast cancer, The EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, and The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA),do not have any evidence or research data that ingredients (including parabens) in underarm antiperspirants or deodorants cause cancer.

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben in skin care:

• Paraben and phenoxyethanol based liquid preservative
• non-formaldehyde releasing
• globally approved
• stable in low (acidic) pH
• effective in pH-ranges up to 8
• broad, balanced spectrum of effect against bacteria, yeasts and mould fungi
• effective even in low use-concentrations
• proved to have good chemical compatibility with anionic surfactants such as sulphates, ether sulphates and sulphonates, as well as with non-ionogenic surfactants.
• non-ionic surfactants and ether sulphates lead to losses of effectiveness.

Quick guide to our preservatives:

• For facial washes, body washes, and shampoos: EK300
• For acidic creams/lotions (L ascorbic): EK300 or EPE9010
• For alkaline creams/lotions (SAP): EPE9010

EPE9010 is a liquid cosmetic preservative based on phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin. The addition of ethylhexylglycerin affects the interfacial tension at the cell membrane of microorganisms, improving the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. It has a broad, balanced spectrum of effect against bacteria, yeasts and mould fungi. Ethylhexylglycerin and  Phenoxyethanol is stable to hydrolysis, temperature and pH. As a result of the good solubility of Ethylhexylglycerin and Phenoxyethanol, an easy dispersion in the various systems even at low temperature is possible. Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Phenoxyethanol is effective in pH-ranges up to 12 (acidic to alkaline). Gels preserved with Ethylhexylglycerin and Phenoxyethanol stay clear and transparent.

Phenoxyethanol is safe and effective at the designated levels in personal care products and cosmetics. It has a long history of effective preservation of these products, and its safety has been extensively documented on human health. Based on available data, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded that ethylhexylglycerin,is safe for use in cosmetical products. The alkyl glyceryl ethers, including ethylhexylglycerin, may be used in cosmetics and personal care products marketed in Europe according to the general provisions of the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union.

Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Phenoxyethanol in skin care:

• Innovative cosmetic preservative based on phenoxyethanol
• Paraben free, non-formaldehyde releasing,
• globally approved
• stable to hydrolysis, temperature and pH
• Effective in pH-ranges up to 12
• broad, balanced spectrum of effect against bacteria,yeasts and mould fungi
• effective even in low use-concentrations
• ethylhexylglycerin improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol
• Gels preserved with EPE9010 stay clear and transparent.
• Oil soluble and soluble in glycerin
• A high load of surfactants can lead to loss in effectiveness

Quick guide to our preservatives:

• For facial washes, body washes, and shampoos: EK300
• For acidic creams/lotions (L ascorbic): EK300 or EPE9010
• For alkaline creams/lotions (SAP): EPE9010

Gelmaker Ultra emulsifier  is an anionic acrylic copolymer dispersed in medicinal grade white oil. It is typically used as thickener for aqueous solutions and stable O/W emulsions at any stage of manufacture. It requires no pre-mixing or special storage facilities, even at low pH.

Gelmaker Ultra in skin care:

• Cold process emulsifierStable oil/water creams and lotions
• Thickener for aqueous (water)  cream-gels
• No pre-mixing required
• Makes elegant cream-gels
• Ready-to-use liquid for cold process thickening and emulsifying
• No heat or neutralisation required
• Can be used in the presence of anionic and nonionic ingredients
• Effective when formulating from pH 2 - 11
• Can be used in formulations containing a wide range of oil and fat or silicone ingredients up to a total of 30%

Pre Liposome Microemulsion Preparation Base, is especially suited as carrier for active ingredients in light lotions or serums. Pre Liposome Microemulsion Base is a micro-emulsion premix based on hydrogenated soybean lecithin and olive squalane. Pre Liposome Microemulsion Preparation Base forms clear to translucent preparations with excellent texture just by diluting with water. BulkActives' Pre Liposome Microemulsion Base allows to prepare clear / translucent formulations with various oily ingredients, such as oil-soluble vitamins, vegetable oils, esters, hydrocarbons and silicone oils. Larger amounts of oily ingredients can be incorporated in the product without the texture being affected by high surfactant levels. Hydrogenated soybean lecithin works as a natural emulsifier and promotes penetration of actives into the skin.  Liposomes are synthetic microscopic vesicles with an external, fully enclosed double lipid membrane of phospholipids. Liposomes are not active themselves, but function in creams as carriers of  active substances to enhance penetration into the skin's fatty layers.

Pre Liposome Microemulsion Base in skin care:

• penetration enhancer
• base serum/lotion
• emulsifier

Sclerotium gum is an active ingredient obtained through fermentation from hardened fungal masses of various types of fungi. The most common source is a parasitic fungus named Sclerotium rolfsii.  Due to its efficiency as a thickening agent, emulsifier and stabilizer, sclerotium gum is used in numerous applications in the industrial, food and pharmaceutical fields. Recent research showed that sclerotium gum is a compound perfectly suitable for topical delivery of pharmaceuticals and natural active ingredients. Besides providing the right viscosity and stability of the topical preparation, the gum also has multiple benefits for the skin. Sclerotium gum is high in polysaccharides, especially beta glucans, namely scleroglucan, and has multiple benefits for the skin: it protects the lipid barrier, prevents water loss, increases moisturization, protects and repair damaged skin, enhances the local immune response and increases collagen production and deposits.

Key benefits of Sclerotium Gum in skin care:

• moisturizing and hydration [9][12][13]
• anti-inflammatory [6] [10]
• wound healing support [6] [10]
• sun damage protection [10]
• sun damage repair [10]
• stimulate collagen production[11]
• Anti-bacterial [11]
• Antioxidant [10]
• Restore barrier function [9][12][13]

 

• Emulsion stabilizer
• Improves flow of emulsions
• Wide pH tolerance :: 5 to 12
• Offers a nice feel to products
• Viscosity not affected by high heat
• Stable in extreme physical and chemical conditions
• Creates smooth flowing gels / serums
• Improves natural moisture levels in skin and hair
• Gels the water phase for enhanced viscosity without stiffness
• Outstanding suspending ability
• Alternative to carbopol and Gelmaker Ultra
• Moisturizer

Sea Kelp bioFerment (also know as seakelp ferment) is a natural kelp extract that is obtained using traditional fermentation technology. Our  Sea Kelp Bioferment can be used as a great nutritional active or as a skin care base for our other active ingredients. It is a perfect base for users with oily skin types as it moisturizes without supplying extra oil. It is also very effective for normal and dry skin, as it is a powerful nutritive moisturizer. From creams to serums to washes, it is the perfect active for almost any purpose. NEW Green Preservative formulation: Paraben AND Phenoxyethanol free. Now enriched with extra fucoxanthin and fucoidans

Sea Kelp Ferment in skin care: 

• skin serum base
• shampoo base
• nutrition
• moisturizer
• mask base
• hair conditioner
• shaving gel
• anti-inflammatory

In order for skin to be healthy we need a well maintained stratum corneum. A healthy stratum corneum offers protection against environmental stress and water loss.  BulkActives’ multi lamellar cream imitates the skin’s own lipid structure and enhance the skin's natural barrier function. 

BulkActives’ multi lamellar cream is formulated with a new generation, European, sugar based, liquid crystals emulsifying system based on sorbitan stearate with sucrose cocoate. It is formulated specifically for DIY Skin care customers. BulkActives’ multi lamellar cream can be used as is. However, it can easily accept both water, oil, and water soluble and oil soluble powders and liquids. BulkActives’ multi lamellar cream is a great carrier for active skin care ingredients. The multi lamellar structure is ideal for even and effective delivery of skin actives into the skin.

BulkActives’ multi lamellar cream is exclusively and professionally formulated, manufactured and packaged for us by the same biochemist who manufactures our seakelp bioferment, pumpkin bioferment, and lemon bioferment.

NOTE: Based on customer feedback we have reformulated our multi lamellar cream, making it "greener' and even more elegant!  In this NEW formulation we have also replaced the xantham gum with Sclerotium Gum, the preservative system combines the extremely safe, yet effective, Sodium Levulinate and Sodium Anisate, with Potassium sorbate and citric acid.  This means our cream now does NOT contain parabens or phenoxyethanol.

Multi Lamellar Base Cream with SeaKelp Bioferment and Sclerotium Gum (No Oil and No Polymer): 

• Multi-lamellar cream offers outstanding moisturization
• skin barrier repair and maintenance
• optimized delivery of actives

Benefits of Liquid crystal systems:

• Improved dissolution of poorly water soluble actives .
• Liquid crystals can protect and facilitate the transport of fragile molecules e.g. proteins
• Controlled active release:
• Multilayers reduce the interfacial transport of actives dissolved in oil phase
• Active delivery can be tailored depending on the active
• Oleosome structure may enhance delivery of oil soluble ingredients
• Hydrosome structure may enhance delivery of water soluble actives
• Prolonged hydration potential:
• Up to 50% water bound up in swollen water layers.
• This water is less prone to evaporation.
• In-vivo tests moisturization lasts 3 times longer
• Effective Transepidermal Water Loss (TWEL)
• Structure similar to skin

To thicken these creams after adding actives dissolved in waters add a few drops of Gelmaker Ultra (polymer emulsifier)