Carla, Many medications can be and are applied topically by prescription. With that in mind, realize that this particular ingredient is wonderful but understand that this is indeed one of those that may create sensitivity with those already using topical hormones or just use sparingly and see how you respond. Sorry for the very late response..... ...»
I wished i could order this in a smaller amount of 50 gr. Can i get informed when it is available ?
A. It will not be sold in smaller amounts. The review rating is meant to be for the product, not the size in which it is sold :-(.. ...»
The best, most potent and most stable form of Vitamin C.
Makes quite a difference to the appearance of mature, photo-damaged skin - don't expect results over night but with consistent use your skin will look more even and radiant!.. ...»
I purposely waited a few months before writing my review. I am happy to report this product is great! I combined the DMAE product with the base creams resulting in tighter skin and lessened wrinkles, including areas around underarms... ...»
This ingredient has done more for my skin than anything else I've ever used.
I put it into a spray facial toner and use it morning and night. I noticed the effects immediately, they were that dramatic.
I will use this forever, no question... ...»
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Skin aging is a natural process influenced by both internal and external factors. In the past years, due to the considerable improvement in living conditions and implicitly in longevity, skin aging stopped being considered as an unavoidable process but rather a disease that can be delayed, prevented and slowed down.
Wrinkles are cutaneous manifestations of skin aging that present themselves as creases, folds or ridges in the epidermis. Usually wrinkles tend to appear with aging but there are several environmental and habitual factors that boost the aging process. First and foremost catalyst for skin aging is sun exposure. UV radiation causes multiple degenerative processes at dermis and epidermis levels generating metabolism imbalances and even DNA metamorphosis and mutation in a phenomenon commonly known as photoaging. Loss of water, through the epidermis – commonly known as trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) is another factor for fine lines and wrinkles development. In addition there are several individual habits such as facial expressions, smoking, dieting, medication that can speed the aging process and cause skin wrinkling to appear or develop.
As wrinkles and fine lines are inevitable aging effects, due to the skin loss in elasticity, moisture, thickness there are impressive ongoing dermatology and cosmetology researches that attempt to find solutions for stopping and reversing them. Even though fine lines and wrinkles tend to appear all over the body the most affected and visible areas are the face, neck and back of the hands, not surprisingly – since those are the areas that are most exposed to UV radiation.
Judging after their appearance wrinkles can be categorized into fine lines and wrinkles and deep wrinkles. While the deep, bold wrinkles can be approached only by more aggressive and usually invasive cosmetic and dermatologic procedures, there are very encouraging results obtain in stopping and reversing fine lines and even preventing them from appearing, all of these with topically delivered active ingredients.
The best way to combat wrinkles is to address all the factors that can speed up the aging process. Antioxidants will prevent and fight the photoaging effect, the MMP inhibitors counteract the pigmentation deviations and conserves the extracellular matrix components, collagen and HA boosters maintain and enhance the production of the vital components of the extracellular matrix – the very own skin structure, glycation inhibitors delays the aging process and last but not least moisturizers help maintain the skin water levels and protect the skin barrier.    .
Alpha Lipoic Acid (RS-ALA) is a natural occurring animal cofactor that peaks into young adults but decreases with aging. RS-ALA is responsible for several enzymes that engage in the cellular production metabolism. Half-face studies involving topically delivered ALA proved significant improvement in the appearance of treated skin, as evaluated by the subjects themselves, other researchers, and even automatic laser-based measuring methods . Also, topical use gels ALA proved to reduce facial wrinkles, especially around eyes and in upper lip area, improve overall skin colour and texture, without any instances of irritation, peeling or other apparent adverse side effects .
Ascorbic Acid (AA,Vitamin C)  with its more stable derivates Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phospate, Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G resulting from the reaction of Vit C and Glucose) , and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (a derivate from Vitamin C and Isopalmitic Acid) is perhaps the most well known and widely used antioxidant. Their strong activity in ROS scavenging and DNA repair makes them perfect for topical anti-aging mixtures. Several clinical studies showed spectacular results in reversing skin aging effects, especially in fine lines and wrinkles.
Boswellic Acid, extracted from the Boswellia Serata tree is an effective active used in topical treatments especially for its anti-inflammatory properties. Clinical studies showed considerable improved appearance of fine lines and skin roughness associated with photoaging and increased skin thickness .
Centella Asiatica an extract obtained from Gotu Kola - a tropical plant is traditional in the Indian medicine. The extract has been successfully used on human skin to reduce ageing damage, caused by inflammation and glycation with visible effects on fine lines .
CoEnzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) is one of the most popular skin care active ingredients in anti-aging topical mixtures and ointments. A natural occurring enzyme it is involved in the energy metabolism of animal cells being the unique lipid antioxidant in the human body thus the only effective ROS scavenger in water insoluble molecules. It acts on different levels, by boosting collagen and supporting the extracellular matrix, maintaining the water balance and as an anti-oxidant being extremely efficient in reducing wrinkle depth and eliminating fine lines .
Creatine Pyruvate is a naturally occurring molecule synthesized in the human body and involved in the energy production metabolism. The active is involved in repairing skin damage caused by photoaging. Topically applied together with folic acid it determines faster cell proliferation and stimulates renewal of the damaged skin tissue. This resulted in increased skin firmness, reduced number of both fine and coarse wrinkles, as well as increased smoothness and elasticity .
Dimethylaminoethanol [DMAE] is an active substance structurally similar to choline, a precursor to acetylcholine (muscle contractor). DMAE is known to have skin tightening effects being known as a natural facelift ingredient. In several clinical studies, it successfully reduced wrinkles, faded fine lines, and tightened neck skin. Topical mixtures formulation containing DMAE increased firmness in photoaged skin, skin with chronic damage due to sun exposure .
Fucoidan, a dietary fibre extracted mainly from the brown seaweed, has multiple anti-wrinkles actions. It acts as a MMP inhibitor, collagen booster and as a moisturizer, showing visible effects in topical treatments .
GABA (gamma-aminobutyric acid) is a natural occurring neurotransmitter with proven muscle relaxing properties. Due to its action as a relaxer the gamma-aminobutyric acid is especially effective with expression lines. It can inhibit neuronal activity and implicitly relax the muscles involved in the expression thus attenuating the “expression lines .
Ginkgo Biloba is a natural active rich in flavonoids extracted from the unique tree species with the same name, renowned for its potency and versatility. It has both antioxidant and moisturizing effects with multiple benefits for the skin showed in various studies and clinical trials that proved the extract produces visible improvement in enhancing the smoothness of the skin .
Green tea extract has in its composition almost 90% of a potent antioxidant called EGCG. Due to its activity the green tea extract protects the skin from reddening, DNA damage and even cell death following UV exposure the active is highly effective in combating wrinkles and fine lines caused by photoaging .
Hyaluronic Acid is one of the three main components of the extracellular matrix, the three-dimensional structure that offers thickness, elasticity and flexibility to the skin. When topically applied it restores and even boosts the existing hyaluronan levels in the skin conserving its elastic properties and smooth appearance and even reversing wrinkling .
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), a multipurpose cosmetic active agent is well known to have antioxidant effects by scavenging free radicals. Due to its intense anti-ROS activity vitamin B3 showed encouraging results in repairing fine lines and wrinkles, especially the ones around the eyes .
Oat Beta Glucan is non-starchy polysaccharide and a major component of water soluble cereal fibre and an important part of oat dietary fibre. As a collagen synthesis promoter it is relevantly effective in smoothing fine lines and wrinkles when locally applied .
The Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 peptides liposome emulsion contains the peptides pal-ghk and pal-gqp acting in synergy to repair the cutaneous damages of age. Due to their similarity with natural occurring skin peptides – which are results of collagen disintegration- this active combination signals the skin that new collagen needs to be produced. It has one of the most complex anti-aging actions by promoting collagen and HA synthesis, inhibiting MMP, inhibiting glycation and moisturizing.
Phytosterols are plant produced sterols unavailable in the human body. From the bundle of available sterols Spinosterol and Fucosterol are the most effective in inhibiting ROS production and UV mutations and enhancing antioxidant enzyme levels thus offering a multilevel protection against photoaging effects including wrinkles and fine lines .
Pomegranate through its main component – ellagic acid - is an efficient botanical active used in topical skin protection against sun damage and for sun damage repair, including photoaging. Studies have shown that ellagic acid reduces UV-induced cell death, boosts collagen and inhibit MMP, its complex actions leading to visible fine lines reduction on topically treated skin .
Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid), a botanical active extracted from the seeds white willow bark is another effective active in reducing fine lines. Topically applied salicylic acid especially used in peeling solutions showed remarkable results in reversing fine line and reducing wrinkles .
Soy isoflavones are phytoestrogens extracted from the soy plant. Due to their perfect resemblance to estrogen the isoflavones are highly effective in treating the hormonal imbalance related skin manifestations including fine lines and wrinkles. Topically applied they showed visible improvement of the skin surface and also it proved to be an effective moisturizer .
Squalane olive oil is a versatile active with numerous cosmetic uses due to its high resemblance with the natural human skin sebum. Its composition, very similar to sebum makes it a very well tolerated active with great results in moistening the skin and reducing wrinkle crests .
Vitamin E, preferably natural, in its most stable and efficient forms tocopherols is a popular antioxidant, highly effective in combination with Vitamin C. Due to its properties and to the fact that is very well tolerated by the skin (natural occurring sebum also contains tocopherols) Vitamin E is an ideal active ingredient in anti-aging topical mixtures, with relevant effects in reducing and reversing fine lines and wrinkles .
The incontestable advantage of a DIY mixture is that you can include several actives in a high quality vehicle to address multiple degenerating processes, and you can vary ingredients and quantity until the recipe is refined to perfection for your own skin. You can follow the general guidelines but tailor the final composition to your skin need and implicitly obtaining the best results.
 G. Fisher, Z. Wang, S. Datta, J. Varani, S. Kang, J. Voorhees, “Patophysiology of premature skin aging induced by ultraviolet light”, New England Journal of Medicine, pp:1419-1428, 1997
 N. Puzina-Ivic, “Skin aging”, Acta Dermatoven, 17, pp:47-54,2008
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 C.Burgess,Cosmetic Dermatology, ISBN 3-540-23064-5 Springer Berlin Heidelberg New York, 2005
 H. Beitner, “Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin,” Br. J. Dermatol., vol. 149, no. 4, pp. 841–849, Oct. 2003.
 S. Sherif, E. R. Bendas, and S. Badawy, “The clinical efficacy of cosmeceutical application of liquid crystalline nanostructured dispersions of alpha lipoic acid as anti-wrinkle,” Eur. J. Pharm. Biopharm. Off. J. Arbeitsgemeinschaft Für Pharm. Verfahrenstechnik EV, vol. 86, no. 2, pp. 251–259, Feb. 2014.
 R. E. Fitzpatrick and E. F. Rostan, “Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage,” Dermatol. Surg. Off. Publ. Am. Soc. Dermatol. Surg. Al, vol. 28, no. 3, pp. 231–236, Mar. 2002.
 G.K. Heber, B. Markovic, A. Hayes, “An immunohistological study of anhydrous topical ascorbic acid compositions on ex vivo human skin”, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 5,pp:150-156, 2006
 T. Raschke, U. Koop, H.-J. Düsing, A. Filbry, K. Sauermann, S. Jaspers, H. Wenck, and K.-P. Wittern, “Topical activity of ascorbic acid: from in vitro optimization to in vivo efficacy,” Skin Pharmacol. Physiol., vol. 17, no. 4, pp. 200–206, Aug. 2004.
 A. Pedretti, R. Capezzera, C. Zane, E. Facchinetti, and P. Calzavara-Pinton, “Effects of Topical Boswellic Acid on Photo and Age-Damaged Skin: Clinical, Biophysical, and Echographic Evaluations in a Double-Blind, Randomized, Split-Face Study,” PlantaMed, vol. 76, pp. 550-560, Nov. 2009.
 G. Maramaldi, S. Togni, F. Franceschi, and E. Lati, “Anti-inflammaging and antiglycation activity of a novel botanical ingredient from African biodiversity (CentevitaTM),” Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol., vol. 7, pp. 1–9, 2013.
 M. Inui, M. Ooe, K. Fujii, H. Matsunaka, M. Yoshida, and M. Ichihashi, “Mechanisms of inhibitory effects of CoQ10 on UVB-induced wrinkle formation in vitro and in vivo,” BioFactors Oxf. Engl., 32, pp. 237–243, 2008.
 A. Knott, U. Koop, H. Mielke, K. Reuschlein, N. Peters, G.-M. Muhr, H. Lenz, U. Wensorra, S. Jaspers, L. Kolbe, T. Raschke, F. Stäb, H. Wenck, and S. Gallinat, “A novel treatment option for photoaged skin,” J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 7, pp. 15–22, 2008.
 B. Sommerfeld, “Randomised, placebo-controlled, double-blind, split-face study on the clinical efficacy of Tricutan on skin firmness,” Phytomedicine, 14, pp. 711-715, 2007.
 J. H. Fitton, M. Irhimeh, N. Falk, Macroalgal fucoidan extracts: a new opportunity for marine cosmetics”, Cosmetics and toiletries 122, 2007
 O. D. Lacharriere and L. Breton, “Compositions and methods for treating wrinkles and/or fine lines of the skin,” US5869068 A, 09-Feb-1999.
 P. Chuarienthong, N. Lourith, and P. Leelapornpisid, “Clinical efficacy comparison of anti-wrinkle cosmetics containing herbal flavonoids,” Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., vol. 32, no. 2, pp. 99–106, Apr. 2010.
 T. Mahmood , N. Akhtar, “Combined topical application of lotus and green tea improves facial skin surface parameters,” Rejuvenation Res., vol. 16, no. 2, pp. 91–97, Apr. 2013.
 T.J. Brown , D. Alcorn, J.R.E Fraser , “Absorption of hyaluronan applied to the surface of intact skin”,Journal of investigative dermatology, 113, pp:740-746, 1999
 R. Osborne, L. A. Mullins, and L. R. Robinson, “Topical N-Acetyl Glucosamine and Niacinamide Increase Hyaluronan,” The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio USA.
 R. Pillai, M. Redmond, J. Roding, “Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings In The Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment Of Skin Wrinkles With Beta-Glucan”, 27, pp: 292-292, 2003
 M.-S. Kim, G.-H. Oh, M.-J. Kim, and J.-K. Hwang, “Fucosterol inhibits matrix metalloproteinase expression and promotes type-1 procollagen production in UVB-induced HaCaT cells,” Photochem. Photobiol., vol. 89, no. 4, pp. 911–918, Aug. 2013.
 F. Afaq, M. A. Zaid, N. Khan, M. Dreher, and H. Mukhtar, “Protective effect of pomegranate-derived products on UVB-mediated damage in human reconstituted skin,” Exp. Dermatol., vol. 18, no. 6, pp. 553–561, Jun. 2009.
 D. Kligman and A.M. Kligman, “Salicylic Acid Peels for the Treatment of Photoaging”, Dermatologic Surgery, vol. 24, issue 3, pp. 325-328, March 1998.
 P-G. Sator, J.B. Schmidt, T. Rabe, C.C. Zouboulis , “Skin aging and sex hormones in women – clinical perspectives for intervention by hormone replacement therapy”, Experimental Dermatology, 13, pp:36-40, 2004
 S. Kato, H. Taira, H. Aoshima, Y. Saitoh, and N. Miwa, “Clinical evaluation of fullerene-C60 dissolved in squalane for anti-wrinkle cosmetics,” J Nanosci Nanotechnol., vol. 10, issue 10, pp. 6769-74, October 2010.
 B.A. Jurkiewicz, D.L. Bissett, and G.R. Buettner, “Effect of Topically Applied Tocopherol on Ultraviolet Radiation-Mediated Free Radical Damage in Skin,” The Society for Investigative Dermatology, vol. 104, no. 4, pp. 484-488, April 1995.
Alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) is a naturally occurring antioxidant that also shows numerous attractive features for use in cosmetic skin care. It is known as a dietary supplement for a long time, but recent research suggests it may be more effective through other applications, such as skin creams. ALA neutralizes free radicals, thus helping to fight ageing and cancer. It is more effective in combating free radicals than common vitamins, such as vitamin C or E, hence lipoic acid is called the “universal antioxidant”. In skin care, ALA was also shown to promote wound healing, treat and prevent diabetic ulcers. Cosmetics research suggests that ALA can promote collagen synthesis, thus reducing the visible effects of ageing on skin, and improving the appearance without any noticeable side effects. Alpha Lipoic Acid is a key active ingredient in Perricone MD products
L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is an essential nutrient which has many cosmetic benefits. It is a remarkable antioxidant and can scavenge reactive oxygen species and other free radicals, protecting the skin from oxidative stress. It can stimulate collagen synthesis by promoting cross-linking and stabilizing collagen molecules, upregulating collagen genes, increasing the transcription of the tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1, and inducing fibroblast proliferation. It reduces pigmentation by suppressing tyrosinase, which is important for melanin production. It is an anti-inflammatory agent and can be used to treat inflammatory skin disease such as erythema. Together, L-ascorbic acid provides powerful anti-aging properties and has been shown to reduce wrinkles, improve elasticity, and protect against sun damage. Stability and absorption of L-ascorbic acid is a concern. While the anhydrous L-ascorbic acid might be the most stable form, adding vitamin E not only helps stabilizing L-ascorbic acid, but the two have synergistic effects on anti-aging. Used in: philosopy's turbo booster c powder and SkinCeuticals.
Key benefts of L-ascorbic acid in skin care:
Antioxidant     
Increase skin elasticity 
Lightening and brightening     
Matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) inhibitors 
Moisturizing and hydration 
Reduce fine lines and wrinkles     
Ascorbyl glucoside (AA-2G) is a vitamin derivative, produced biologically by the reaction between glucose and vitamin C. This addition confers greater stability, compared to relatively unstable pure ascorbic acid, thus allowing for wide usage in pharmacy and cosmetics. AA-2G retains the antioxidant properties of the unmodified vitamin, therefore it is used to prevent radiation damage, cell senescence and skin darkening. It also promotes collagen synthesis, as well as cell proliferation – these mechanisms help improve the appearance of the skin and reduce wrinkles. Furthermore, since AA-2G does not release ascorbic acid instantly, all the listed positive effects are sustained longer and the possibility of adverse effects is reduced, compared to using pure ascorbic acid. All these qualities make AA-2G the most attractive vitamin C derivative for cosmetic use.
Key benefits of Ascorbyl glucoside (AA-2G) in skin care:
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate) is a molecule derived from vitamin C and isopalmitic acid. Pure vitamin C has several drawbacks for cosmeceutical use, most important of which is the low stability. Chemically modified vitamin molecules are more stable, and pure vitamin is released from the derivatives inside the body. Therefore, the effects of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate are similar to those of vitamin C, most importantly it is able to act as an antioxidant. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate reduces the production of oxidizing agents, which contribute to cell damage after exposure to UV or chemical hazards. This effect is even stronger in the modified molecule than in pure vitamin C. Additionally, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate protects against DNA damage and skin darkening caused by UV exposure. Finally, skin visual appearance is also improved by Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, as it promotes collagen synthesis and acts as a hydrating agent in reducing skin roughness.
Key benefits of Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in skin care:
Resin from the Boswella serrata tree found in parts of Asia and Africa is commonly used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine for a variety of disorders associated with inflammation. It has been used medicinally for centuries and is now gaining support through research. The main ingredients of the resin are boswellic acids. Boswellic acids have anti-inflammatory effects when applied topically. Preparations using either the resin or pure boswellic acid extracted from the resin can help treat inflammatory disorders such as osteoarthritis, eczema, and psoriasis. The extract helps reduce sun damage, fine lines, and acne. It stimulates collagen production. Also, it aids in wound healing and inhibits tumor growth. Research shows boswella serrata extract has a variety of useful anti-inflammatory effects and can help alleviate the symptoms of a variety of conditions. This extract has been popularized as Boswelox™ by L’Oreal and its Wrinkle-de-crease.
NOTE: To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell Boswellia serrata (Boswelic acid) as a liquid standardized pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.
16% solution gives 1% Boswelic Acid content in final product.
46% solution gives 3% Boswelic Acid content in final product.
66% solution gives 5% Boswelic Acid content in final product.
Centella asiatica is a tropical plant that has been used extensively in Indian medicine. It has diverse applications for skin cosmetics: firstly, it is effective in wound care, as it promotes healing of simple, infected, non-healing, or burn wounds, as well as wounds in patients with diabetes, undergoing radiotherapy or steroid medication. Centella is also used for treating scars and preventing or reducing stretch marks. The extract of this plant promotes synthesis of collagen, hydroxyproline, hyaluronic acid and cell growth factors, thus helping to maintain the elasticity, strength and general appearance of healthy skin. It also protects the skin from ageing damage, such as glycation, and UV damage, likely by activating antioxidant synthesis.
NOTE: To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell Centella asiatica as a standardized pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.
15% solution gives 1% triterpenes content in final product.
43% solution gives 3% triterpenes content in final product.
72% solution gives 5% triterpenes content in final product.
Coenzyme Q10 is a molecule naturally involved in energy metabolism in all human cells. Among its many benefits, the antioxidant properties are the most researched. This molecule can prevent oxidation damage to water-insoluble molecules, DNA mutations, collagen synthesis decrease, pigmentation, inflammation and other adverse effects associated with UV exposure and ageing. In combination with vitamin E or other antioxidants, an exceedingly strong antioxidative effect can be achieved. Furthermore, coenzyme Q10 has a unique capability to protect against infrared A radiation, which is also found in sunlight. The promotion of collagen synthesis makes this coenzyme useful in treating ageing-associated skin changes, such as wrinkle appearance. Finally, its anti-inflammatory effect is beneficial not only for UV-damaged skin, but also for wound healing support.
Creatine is a molecule synthesized naturally in the human body. It is most important in tissues where energy-requiring activities occur, as it is involved in maintaining constant energy flow inside the cell. It was show to protect skin from degeneration during ageing: creatine activates collagen synthesis, in this way decreasing the amount of wrinkles, and restoring skin firmness, smoothness and elasticity. Cheek sagging can also be reduced by applying creatine-containing cream. Another important benefit of creatine is UV damage protection, as it helps to protect cellular structures (especially mitochondria) from oxidative stress and mutations. Furthermore, creatine-treated skin was shown to regenerate faster. However, to protect creatine itself, pairing with coenzyme Q10 or other antioxidants is advised.
Dimethylaminoethanol [DMAE] is structurally similar to choline, an important component of cell membranes. Choline is a precursor to acetylcholine, which stimulates muscle contraction. DMAE is known to have skin tightening effects. In several clinical studies, it successfully reduced wrinkles, improved lip fullness, and tightened neck skin. Overall, DMAE has a skin lifting effect. These studies showed DMAE is safe for extended use and does not irritate skin. Pure DMAE is very basic, which may have negative effects on the skin. Thus DMAE bitratrate, the salt form of DMAE, is used in topical formulations as the pH is close to that of skin. DMAE is the active ingredient in Tricutan ( Dermyn Active Serum). Regretably, due to Candian law and PayPal regulations, this product may NOT be shipped to Canada.
Key benefits of DMAE bitartrate in skin care:
Wrinkle tightener    
Anti-inflammatory  
Moisturizing and hydration 
Reduce dark circles under eyes 
Reduce fine lines and wrinkles     
Ethyl ascorbic acid is a molecule produced by modifying ascorbic acid, commonly known as vitamin C. This modification is done to increase the molecule’s stability and enhance its transport through skin, as pure vitamin C is easily degraded. In the body, the modifying group is removed and vitamin C is restored in its natural form. Thus, ethylascorbic acid retains the benefits of vitamin C, such as antioxidant activity. Furthermore, it is even more potent in reducing skin darkening after UV exposure. It even has some additional effects, not observed in pure ascorbic acid, such as promoting nerve cell growth or reducing chemotherapy damage. Finally, the slower release also ensures that no toxic effects are observed when using this vitamin C derivative.
Fucoidan is a dietary fiber extracted from brown seaweed which belongs to a class of fucose-enriched sulphated polysaccharides. Fucoidan has been used for many years in traditional Asian medicine as an anti-coagulant, anti-thrombotic, anti-cancer agent, and to modify immune responses. Topical formulations have recently been investigated for various therapeutic and cosmetic uses. Due to anti-inflammatory and procollagen synthesis-stimulating properties, fucoidan holds promise for use healing burns, alleviating allergic reactions, and treating atopic dermatitis. Additionally, fucoidans can increase dermal fibroblast migration and their rate of proliferation. In several experimental approaches, fucoidan has been shown to successfully reduce the appearance of aging and to promote hair regeneration. Fucoidan is also present in our seakelp biofermentl, but this powder fucoidan is standardized for 85% of the active ingredient.
NOTE: To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell Fucoidan as a standardized pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.
GABA (gamma-aminobutyric acid) is a neurotransmitter with purported dermatological benefits. Several patents indicated that GABA can be used as a wrinkle relaxer based on its inhibitory effect on muscles. Some patents also claim that GABA can dilate skin peripheral blood vessels, moisturize and prevent aging, suppress parakeratosis and shrink pores, as well as whitening the skin. However there is no scientific data to support these claims. On the other hand, a preliminary research study has shown that GABA can stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis and protect the fibroblasts from oxidative stress. Another study showed that GABA was able to upregulate beta-defensin-2, which is an anti-microbial peptide, and filaggrin, which plays a role in normal barrier function of the skin. Lastly, GABA might be useful in combating inflammation associated with psoriasis based on preliminary findings that GABA receptors are expressed in white blood cells in psoriatic skin. Overall, the evidence of GABA in supporting skin health is very weak, and consumers are warned for its application.
Unsubstantiated benefits of GABA (Gamma-aminobutyric acid) in skin care:
Ginkgo biloba is a unique tree species. Its leaf extract contains a diverse variety of molecules useful in cosmetics and pharmacology. Firstly, they are potent antioxidants, and can even activate the production of enzymes that neutralize free radicals. Combined with the anti-inflammatory effects, this extract provides an effective defense against UV radiation and ageing symptoms. Dermal applications of this extract can even lead to protection of other organs. Another major application of Ginkgo biloba is moisturizing the skin, which helps to increase its elasticity and visual appearance, even reducing the amount of wrinkles. Furthermore, this extract helps to maintain the barrier function of the skin – it reduces water loss through epidermis, thus reducing skin dryness and irritation. In combination with green tea extract, Ginkgo shows even stronger benefits in these areas.
NOTE: To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell Ginkgo Biloba extract as a standardized pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.
Green tea has numerous benefits in almost all aspects of skin care. The main active ingredient, EGCG, is a potent antioxidant, and protects skin from UV damage. This results in reduced wrinkling, increased collagen content, smoother skin, thicker and more elastic epidermis and other visual benefits. Green tea also helps to moisturize the skin and improves the long-term barrier capabilities. Among the numerous clinical benefits are antibacterial and antifungal effects, which make green tea useful in wound care. Most important health effect is the prevention of melanoma and other types of skin cancer, resulting partly from the EGCG capability to neutralize free radicals and activate DNA repair. Since the extract also reduces inflammation and sebum secretion, it is an effective treatment against acne. Finally, green tea has also been proven to reduce hair loss and follicle death. Active ingredient in Teamine™ and ReVive™ lines.
NOTE:To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell Green Tea EGCG in a standardized, pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.
11% solution gives 1% EGCG content in final product.
33% solution gives 3% EGCG content in final product.
54% solution gives 5% EGCG content in final product.
Hyaluronic acid [HA] is an important component of the extracellular matrix. Known to have a role in stimulating dermal fibroblast migration and proliferation as well as for tissue hydration, topical HA has been used in cosmetic applications for decades. Its skin-benefitting properties along with its ability to bind and retain huge amounts of water makes HA ideal for use in anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, and moisturizing creams. HA can exist across a wide range of molecular weights, with the cellular and physiological effects directly depending on the molecular weight of HA present. Therefore, the selection of HA species for use in such creams is of critical importance. High molecular weight HA does not penetrate the epithelium. Very low molecular weight HA, which does penetrate the skin efficiently, can induce a pro-inflammatory response. Recent data indicates that solutions of low molecular weight HA [50 kDa] are best suited for topical use in skin care products as it can penetrate into the skin well but does not cause inflammation. Note:Hyaluronic Acid 50 kDa does not create a thick gel, for this reason we have started selling Sclerotium Gum, the combination of the two ingredients will create an excellent, safe, and efficient product. Warning: Customers in countries with a dry climate may find that hyaluronic acid has a drying effect, instead of moisturizing. It is theorized that this is due to the HA drawing moisturize away from the skin.
Key benefits of Hyaluronic Acid 50 kDa (Low Molecular Weight sodium hyaluronate) in skin care:
Alpha hydroxyl acids [AHAs] such as lactic acid have been used traditionally to improve the feel and complexion of the skin. While glycolic acid has been the conventional AHA used in skin care products, lactic acid has ranked even with or outperformed lactic acid in every category and is the only AHA to maintain such success over the course of twenty-two weeks. Lactic acid is a known exfoliant which can slough off dull skin to leave a brighter complexion. It can also increase the synthesis of lipids and ceramides, thereby fortifying the skin barrier function and reducing water loss. Further, lactic acid is correlated to increased hyaluronic acid and collagen synthesis, resulting in skin that is more hydrated, softer and firmer, and with fewer fine lines and wrinkles. Topical application of lactic acid also can reduce the synthesis of melanin and decrease the appearance of hyperpigmentation or age spots. Incorporation of lactic acid in skin care products can lighten and brighten skin while improving dermal health and reducing the appearance of photoaging.
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a water soluble form of vitamin B3. Vitamin B3 is essential for maintaining skin health. Niacinamide increases production of important skin structural components such as collagen, ceramide, and keratin. This helps increase moisture and strengthen skin. Niacinamide is known to decrease hyperpigmentation, effectively lightening and brightening skin, especially when used together with n-acetyl glucosamine, a hyaluronic acid precursor. It reduces wrinkles and again, this effect is better with n-acetyl glucosamine. Niacinamide also effectively helps reduce acne and heal wounds. It has anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Overall, niacinamide is a compound with many different uses that can increase overall skin health.
Oat Beta Glucan (β-glucans) are polysaccharides composed of glucose molecules in long linear polymers and they are naturally present in fungi, plants, algae and bacteria. Glucans interact with immune cells and have immunopharmacological properties. The results of studies showed that beta-glucan, despite its large molecular size may be capable of penetrating deep into the skin and delivering significant benefits for the skin. After the entery to skin, oat beta-glucan forms a thin film above the stratum corneum and epidermis and promotes sustained moisturization properties together with an improved, smoother appearance of the skin. Interaction between glucan and glucan receptors triggers reactions with fibroblasts that stimulate collagen synthesis. As a result of promoted collagen synthesis, elasticity of the skin is enhanced, wrinkle is reduced, with significant reduction of wrinkle depth and height, and overall roughness, aging process is largely delayed, and the negative effect of radiation is minimized. Glucan added to sunscreens helps in preservation of Langerhans cells so it can be use as an excellent photoprotective agent. It has been reported that topical glucans administration can suport wound healing and be useful for scar care by stimulating tissue granulation, collagen deposition, and re-epithelialization. Oat beta glucan also has anti-inflammatory antioxidant and free radicals scavenging capabilities.
Key benefits of Oat Beta Glucan (Beta 1-3, 1-4) in skin care:
The Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 peptides liposome emulsion contains the peptidespal-ghkand pal-gqp acting in synergy to repair the cutaneous damages of age. By activating the skin’s natural production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, the peptides work to reduce wrinkles and other signs of aging. Collagen, made up of long strands of amino acids, is really the main building block of skin, giving the skin its smooth, and youthful appearance. As we age, collagen is lost, and this gives way to aged, wrinkled looking skin. When the long strands of amino acids in collagen are broken down they create small chains commonly referred to as peptides. The presence of these peptides signal to the skin that it has lost collagen and the production of more is necessary. The peptides Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 work to mimic the appearance of this broken down collagen, causing your skin to react by producing more collagen, as well as elastin (responsible for the skin’s elasticity, and hyaluronic acid (which plumps up the skin and gives it that healthy, full look).
Key benefits of the peptides Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 liposome emulsion in skin care:
Phytosterols are a family of plant-produced molecules with diverse health benefits. In cosmetics, the ability to stimulate collagen production is most interesting. Together with antioxidant activity and down-regulation of collagen degrading enzymes, these abilities help repair damage in photoaged skin. Phytosterols also have anti-inflammatory properties, which are useful in UV protection, dermatitis treatment, and even cancer prevention. They are widely used in burn wound care – phytosterols were found to improve healing, improve scar appearance and possess analgesic properties, reducing the need of opiate drugs. Antimicrobial activity of phytosterols is also important in skin care, as it can be utilized in both wound care and general fight against infections, such as Candida. Finally, phytosterols regulate transport of cholesterol and thus sebum production – this may present a good treatment option for acne and other sebum-related conditions.
NOTE:To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell Phytosterol in a standardized pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.
11% solution gives 1% Phytosterols content in final product.
32% solution gives 3% Phytosterols content in final product.
53% solution gives 5% Phytosterols content in final product.
Pomegranates have been used in medicine since ancient times. The extract of this plant contains many compounds acting synergistically to produce strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. It also helps maintain collagen levels, both by promoting its synthesis and inhibiting collagen-degrading enzymes. Due to these properties, pomegranate extract has a range of benefits in UV protection – it can be used both to prevent and to reduce sunlight damage (photoageing) after exposure. Furthermore, it is an effective skin whitening agent, used to treat melasma and other hyperpigmentation problems. Finally, faster wound healing is observed when using this extract. Combined with antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory properties and the ability to increase collagen synthesis, this makes pomegranate extract beneficial in many aspects of wound care.
NOTE: To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell Pomegranate Extract as a standardized pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.
25% solution gives 1% Ellagic Acid content in final product.
75% solution gives 3% Ellagic Acid content in final product.
13% solution gives 1% Polyphenols content in final product.
39% solution gives 3% Polyphenols content in final product.
65% solution gives 5% Polyphenols content in final product.
Salicylic acid is a hydroxyl acid compound originally derived from willow tree bark. It has many useful effects on skin, the most prominent being its use as an anti-acne treatment. It penetrates deep into pores, removing trapped oil that can cause blemishes. Salicylic acid is a keratolytic compound, meaning it exfoliates the skin and sloughs off dead skin cells, leaving smooth skin. This makes it useful for treating scaly skin, as well as calluses and warts. It also has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. Salicylic acid has been shown to influence photodamage by reducing hyperpigmentation and providing protection against UV exposure.
NOTE: To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid) as a pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.
6.7% solution gives 1% Salicylic acid content in final product.
13.3% solution gives 2% Salicylic acid content in final product.
20% solution gives 3% Salicylic acid content in final product.
26.7% solution gives 4% Salicylic acid content in final product.
33.3% solution gives 5% Salicylic acid content in final product.
Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is one of nature’s most powerful antioxidants.As the natural aging process and environmental hazards increase the amount of free radicals in the skin, ascorbic acid and its derivatives can effectively neutralize these damaging agents and prevent further damage.Ascorbic acid has been shown to increase the synthesis of collagen in the skin to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and to block the melanin synthesis pathway, reducing age spots and lightening skin.Unfortunately, ascorbic acid is not stable in aqueous solutions and is quickly degraded.The hydrophilic ascorbic acid derivative sodium ascorbyl phosphate is significantly more shelf-stable in solutions and, as it is converted to ascorbic acid in skin, retains all of the skin-benefitting aspects of vitamin C.Therefore sodium ascorbyl phosphate is the ideal choice for anti-aging emulsion creams.
Key benefits of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate in skin care:
Soy isoflavones are comparatively new in regards to cosmetic use, however, studies show they have multiple skin-benefitting properties.Isoflavones are structurally similar to estrogens and can activate estrogen signaling pathways, including collagen synthesis, to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and increase tissue hydration.Additionally isoflavones are powerful antioxidants that can halt and reverse the appearance of aging due to free radicals caused by sunlight and other environmental hazards.As such, soy isoflavones are useful in reducing redness of the skin and decreasing the appearance of dark spots.These properties make soy isoflavones ideal for use in anti-aging, moisturizing, and skin protecting creams.
Squalane is a form of squalene, a natural component of sebum [oil] that acts as a barrier for the skin. It is structurally similar to many natural compounds that benefit the skin, such as β-carotene, and vitamins A, D, E, and K. Squalane’s most noted function is as an anti-oxidant. It depletes the amount of free radicals from UV rays that can cause damage to the skin. Squalane also moisturizes and hydrates, decreasing dryness, itching, and redness. With these characteristics, it restores barrier function to the skin. It can act as a detoxifier and may play a role in acne treatment. Squalane is also used to increase the absorption of preparations into the skin.
Key benefits of Squalane Olive Oil in skin care:
Anti-oxidant [1, 3, 6, 7, 9, 13]
Moisturizing and hydration [1, 2, 3, 6, 10]
Sun damage protection [6, 7, 10]
Increases skin elasticity [3, 6]
Anti-androgenic alopecia 
Restore barrier function 
Reduce fine lines and wrinkles 
Squalane Olive Oil is highly stable against oxidation.
Natural Vitamin E Mixed Tocopherols is an active blend of natural mixed tocopherols containing naturally occurring d-alpha, d-beta, d-gamma and d-delta tocopherols. These are NATURAL tocopherols, they are NOT the synthetic, racemix dl-tocopherol or dl-tocopheryl acetate.
Tocopherol is the most commonly used form of vitamin E in cosmetic products. α-tocopherol, one of four types of tocopherol, is the most abundant form of vitamin E naturally found in the skin. α and γ forms are excreted in sebum [oil] and act as a barrier for the skin. The amount of tocopherol in the skin decreases over time due to sun exposure. Tocopherols are strong anti-oxidants. Anti-oxidants help protect against skin aging. Tocopherols use their anti-oxidant ability to protect against sun damage and repair sun damage. They increase collagen production and protect existing collagen by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase [MMP] that degrades collagen. Mixed tocopherols have anti-inflammatory properties and accelerate wound healing.
Key benefits of Vitamin E Mixed Tocopherols in skin care:
White willow bark extract has been used by many cultures to reduce pain and inflammation. It contains salicin, a natural form of salicylic acid known to have anti-inflammatory effects. Salicin can reduce signs of aging by reducing the appearance of pores, wrinkles, and pigmentation. It also softens and moisturizes the skin. Salicin contributes to white willow bark extract’s exfoliating and acne-reducing power. White willow bark extract also contains polyphenols that contribute anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. These can help protect against sun damage and premature aging when used with sunscreen. White willow bark extract is a natural alternative to salicylic acid that has additional properties to enhance skin health.
NOTE: To assist you with solubility issues, we now also sell White Willow bark extract as a standardized pre-dissolved solution. Just add the liquid to your cream and mix well.
Key benefits of White Willow bark (salicin) in skin care:
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a water soluble magnesium salt of ascorbic acid. It is very stable, has great bioavailability and a neutral PH. On the skin, MAP has beneficial effects – similar to vitamin C: antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, boosts skin elasticity, lightening, hydrating, and wound healing, photo-protective. MAP is also easy to use and incorporate in DIY formulation both in aqueous and oil in water emulsions.
Key benefits of Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) in skin care:
BulkActives are DIY skin care suppliers of skin actives, cosmetic ingredients, cosmeceuticals, active ingredients, and standardized botanical extracts for diy skin care products and homemade cosmetics.
BulkActives is a part-time business. Orders are processed on Saturdays and mailed on Mondays at the latest.