About Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (LMW sodium hyaluronate Powder) in DIY Skin Care
The appearance of the outer layer of the skin, the epidermis, is supported primarily by the dermis and the extracellular matrix it secretes. This matrix, sandwiched between the epidermis and the dermis, is an organized and highly structured environment. While collagen and fibrin primarily make up the support system of this structure, hyaluronic acid [HA] is the filler and cushion which provides the mechanical integrity for that structure. Composed of long chains of non-sulfated glycosaminoglycans, HA contributes to maintenance of the skin through dermal fibroblast cell proliferation and migration [1, 2].
Arguably the most important property of HA is its ability to bind water and regulate the hydration of tissues. HA, whose molecular weight can reach into the millions of daltons, can hold hundreds of times its weight of water. Under certain conditions, degradation of HA occurs and results in the appearance of sagging or wrinkled skin. This may happen as a result of infection, wound, or simply the natural aging process [3]. The high water-holding capacity and the contribution to maintenance of the dermal layer of skin makes HA extremely attractive for use in moisturizers and anti-aging creams as well as for wound healing support.
Although commonly used in commercial anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, and moisturizing formulas, high molecular weight HA can actually not efficiently penetrate the barrier of the epidermis [4]. Thus, these creams are not as effective as generally perceived. Further, once in the skin, the physiological effects of HA depend on the molecular size of the HA species present.
Very low molecular weight HA species [approximately 20 kDa or below], actually have pro-inflammatory effects and cause or increase inflammation. These HA species can bind to receptors on macrophages in the dermis, Toll-like receptor 2 and 4, and initiate an immune response [5, 6]. Although potentially useful for wound care, low molecular weight HA confers a negative effect in terms of skin aesthetics. In contrast, high molecular weight HA does not stimulate macrophages to initiate an inflammatory response. This indicates that selection of HA species to be used in cosmetic applications must be done carefully. The HA used must sufficiently penetrate the skin to elicit benefits but must do so without stimulating an immune response.
Recently, studies on HA suggest that formulations containing low molecular weight HA of approximately 50 kDa are ideal. 50 kDa HA efficiently penetrates into the skin as is evidenced by a skin diffusion assay whereas the 300, 800, and 1,500 species penetrated significantly poorer. A trial in which human participants were treated for 8 weeks with a HA topical solution containing 50, 130, or 300 kDa demonstrated that the 50 kDa solution most significantly decreased skin roughness whereas the 300 kDa treatment had no measurable effect. Further, the appearance of wrinkles in the 50 kDa treatment group was significantly decreased [7].
It has been shown that the 800 kDa high molecular weight HA species commonly used in cosmetic formulations can activate approximately 40 genes in keratinocytes which are involved in skin cell regulation and formation of cell-cell tight junctions. In a reconstructed epidermis model in which the skin was treated with high molecular weight HA [800 kDa] or low molecular weight HA [50 kDa], the 50 kDa HA stimulated approximately 120 genes including keratinocyte cell regulation and tight junction proteins. Of note, no pro-inflammatory genes were activated. The additional benefits of the 50 kDa at the molecular level are believed to be directly related to the increased penetration of this species [6, 7].
Note: Hyaluronic Acid 50 kDa does not create a thick gel, for this reason we have started selling Sclerotium Gum, the combination of the two ingredients will create an excellent, safe, and efficient product.
Hyaluronic acid in dry climates
"there is a controversy whether concentrated HA formulas should be used as a moisturizer in dry climate. When air humidity is very low, HA may preferentially pull water from the skin rather than from the air, thus producing the opposite effect." [
Dr. G. Todorov. Hyaluronic acid for skin hydration and possibly a lot more.1999-2015. SmartSkinCare.com]
To properly use a hyaluronic acid serum, it needs to be applied onto damp skin and then "sealed" in with a layer of a good moisturizer on top. If applying the hyaluronic acid in this manner still makes your skin feel a bit dry or taut, the hyaluronic acid is probably pulling moisture out of your skin instead of pulling moisture from the air and into your skin.
Note that the combination of Niacinamide and Glucosamine has been proven to actually increase Hyaluronic acid synthesis in the skin, thereby moisturizing from the inside, rather than putting moisture on top of the skin.
CAS#: 9067-32-7
INCI: sodium hyaluronate
Source: biotechnology (bacterial fermentation)
Grade: cosmetic grade
Molecular weight: 50 000 Daltons (50 kDa)
Appearance: white powder
Solubility: water (this pure powder dissolves very well in water, some mixing may be required.)
Suggested percentage: 1 to 2%
Unlike regular Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid LMW will
not form a viscous gel in water
, for this reason we have started selling
Sclerotium Gum, the combination of the two ingredients will create an excellent, safe, and efficient product.
Storage: cool, dry place. Do not freeze. Keep away from light and moisture!
Country of origin: China
Manufacturing company: Our manufacturer is a UK registered company, with their manufacturing facilities in China. They develop and market innovative ingredients for the Nutritional Market.
Manufacturing low weight NaH: Low molecular weight Hyaluronic acid requires an extra production step compared to normal Hyaluronic acid production. Manufacturers use a chemical method to cut large molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid into low molecular weight. Our normal product is naturally fermented, no animal products are used.
[1] Brown M, Jones SA. Hyaluronic acid: a unique topical vehicle for the localized delivery of drugs to the skin. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2005;19[3]:308-18.
[2] Price RD, Berry M, Navsaria HA. Hyaluronic acid: the scientific and clinical evidence. Journal of Plastic, Reconstructive & Aesthetic Surgery. 2007;60[10]:1110-9.
[3] Weindl G, Schaller M, Schafer-Korting M, Korting H. Hyaluronic acid in the treatment and prevention of skin diseases: molecular biological, pharmaceutical and clinical aspects. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2004;17[5]:207-13.
[4] Brown TJ, Alcorn D, Fraser JRE. Absorption of hyaluronan applied to the surface of intact skin. Journal of investigative dermatology. 1999;113[5]:740-6.
[5] Gariboldi S, Palazzo M, Zanobbio L, Selleri S, Sommariva M, Sfondrini L, et al. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid increases the self-defense of skin epithelium by induction of β-defensin 2 via TLR2 and TLR4. The Journal of Immunology. 2008;181[3]:2103-10.
[6] Farwick M, Gauglitz G, Pavicic T, Köhler T, Wegmann M, Schwach-Abdellaoui K, et al. Fifty-kDa hyaluronic acid upregulates some epidermal genes without changing TNF-α expression in reconstituted epidermis. Skin pharmacology and physiology. 2011;24[4]:210-7.
[7] Farwick M, Lersch P, Strutz G. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: its effects on epidermal gene expression & skin ageing. SÖFW Journal. 2008;134[11]:17.